Air Gun Home :: View topic - Slavia, P17 secondary transfer port size?

Slavia · Moderator

I've also heard of epoxying a coin to the piston, but as you say, the cocking force goes way up. I think I'll quit while I'm ahead.

But check with me next week; I think I said that same thing after my last mod.

cw · Banned

What are you using for piston lube? I have been using moly/graph.

Slavia · Moderator

For the first couple of years I used silicone grease, and was replacing the piston "O" ring every few months. Then I went to this PTFE stuff, and it has been over a year since I had to monkey with it. I haven't tried Moly/graphite in this gun.

The grease came from the hardware store here in town.

cw · Banned

Did you chamfer the intake port?

Slavia · Moderator

I didn't chamfer the intake port like you did. Since it has been over a year with this seal, I think I'm in the clear.

I have been inside a number of times:

1. I filled the compartments that don't have mechanical activity with a BB/epoxy mix to balance the red dot sight.
2. I honed the trigger parts, added a couple of shim washers (so the trigger doesn't wobble sideways).
3. The trigger face was pretty slippery, and I had problems with trigger address. That went away when I grooved the trigger face.
4. I had problems with the two rear pins working loose ("hammer" pivot and hammer latch). I made threaded inserts from "T" nuts and epoxied them in place (the pilot holes are already there). Setscrews keep the pins from moving. The lower setscrew has to come up from underneath.
5. My grip extensions have screws coming from inside.
6. I had to replace the valve body "O" rings once.

To anyone else reading this, I would highly suggest taking a picture before working on the innards of this gun. The parts only fit in there one way, but with a picture you'll save time finding what that way is.

Even with the problems that we both have experienced, it is a decent gun for the $40 - $50 they charge these days. Except I paid $15 on clearance at Walmart, which is even decenter.

cw · Banned

I agree. It is a very good pistol once it is sorted out. The accuracy
is astouding. Especially in this price range. The two stage trigger
has a very nice feel to it and gets better with wear.

Slavia · Moderator

And it is truly a two stage trigger - there is sear engagement across the entire trigger arc. The second stage is marked by a change in geometry ("leverage," if you will). What some manufacturers call "two stages" is actually a hair trigger with a lot of slop before anything happens.

I've never seen the Beeman P3/HW40 up close. I wonder if the extra $150 buys overall better quality, or if you're paying the factory to take care of all those little details.

Anyway, I would recommend it to anyone that wants accuracy, doesn't need lots of power, and who doesn't want to pay a lot.

cw · Banned

I think that you are paying the manufacturer to sort out all of the
problems. I have thousands of rounds through mine now. After all
the sorting and fine tunning, it has turned out to be rather dependable
and very consistent.

Yes taking the trigger group and cylinder out of the frame is quite
involved and reassembly even more so, even with photo assist.

Slavia · Moderator

I always remember to heed my own advice about taking pictures - when I go to reassemble.

cw · Banned

I kind of like the challenge of a good basket case some times though.

Why, I remember a basket case 370 Bultaco that was completely
disassembled way back in...

Rockenstein · New Member

cw · Banned

Open it up and let us know how it goes.

Slavia · Moderator

I think of all the things I tried with this gun, grooving the trigger face was the best. My finger used to slip downwards towards the trigger guard, and now it's easy to pull straight back.

I padded the trigger with duct tape, and clamped it face up in a vise. Then I scraped an 8-32 tap sideways to make the grooves. I clamped a small vise-grip pliers perpendicular to the tap as an edge guide. It takes a little patience to get through the metal plate, but once into the base metal it cuts easily. I cleaned out the grooves with a triangular jeweler's file.

Rockenstein · New Member

That's a pretty neat mod Slavia Cool

J5311 · Member

I know i'm diggin up an old post, but would anyone know the piston gasket part number. say in the universal number.... sorry if i'm asking too much