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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing » Bore Cleaning Goto page Previous  1, 2
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 9:19 am Reply with quote
Crosman140
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sniper wrote:
or you can buy a crown saver which is what i use.

edit. only for .22 and larger.

question? it's my understanding airguns only need bore cleaning every 2000 or so shots??






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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:06 am Reply with quote
sledman8002002
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Good post. Thought it deserved a BTT.
Reasoning? I had accuracy trouble this past summer with my Phantom. I continue to only use pellets that perform consistantly for me, (of which there are only 3). So no changes there. Figured it must be due for a new seal and fresh lube. (I do this once a year anyway, so no big deal). Well, no difference in the accuracy after I performed said actions. Hmph. WTF? So after thinking on it, could it be possible the barrel could use a cleaning? I've put in the area of 2300 pellets thru it since new, but I was always under the impression an airgun barrel never needed cleaning. Now, not coming out here for imfo like I should have...I went ahead and did use Hoppes #9 and also a nitro solvent as well. I very quickly removed all excess from the barrel seal, still seems to be in good working order.
Anyway.....Whizz, Bang, back in business! The barrel cleaning worked. Accuracy is right back where it should be. Perhaps this will helps others in the same predicament.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 11:31 am Reply with quote
Roy
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Slav.. Very useful post--A good one. I might add that the sharp corners on a jointed cleaning rod will ding and damage the crown if shoved down the muzzle. Powder burners are ruined this way--imagine what will happen to the delicate rifling of an airgun !

I also think that felt cleaning pellets are a bad idea; they don't hurt the bore, but if by chance one should become stuck, efforts to remove it could cause damage.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 8:40 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
sharp corners on a jointed cleaning rod will ding and damage the crown if shoved down the muzzle.

True, plus any cleaning device (jointed or not) can accumulate embedded grit, so I wipe mine down frequently while cleaning.

Quote:
I also think that felt cleaning pellets are a bad idea; they don't hurt the bore, but if by chance one should become stuck, efforts to remove it could cause damage.

If there is an irregularity severe enough to snag the cleaning pellet I can't imagine it would be all that hard to get it out, but I would be concerned about snagged fibers being left behind.

I bought some of those felt pellets once. The clerk said you just shoot them through like a regular pellet, but when I read the instructions inside the package it said to push them through with a rod. It cautioned to use several at a time if shooting them through (to provide piston braking).

Speaking of crown erosion from the cleaning rod: Some of the old muzzle-loading target rifles had detachable crown protectors for loading. It might be fun to design such a thing for a muzzle brake. My preference would be to clean from the breech, but in some cases that is not possible.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:49 pm Reply with quote
Jeremy
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sorry to bring up a old topic.

Slavia what size trimmer line do you use to pull your patches through? Im using .080" but the patches keep pulling off the end of the line. I have melted the one end and pushed it down to form a flat end but it still isnt big enough to keep the patch on, any ideas?

Im using cotton patches also

Thanks
Jeremy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 2:26 pm Reply with quote
SMP
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Jeremy

I use 0.080 as well.

The key is in the blob. pushing the hot plastic into the back of a pellet seems to work well to form the correct size ball.

Also really open weave patches don't work. find something with a tight weave that you have to fight to get the sharp end into.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 2:35 pm Reply with quote
Jeremy
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cheers sean, never thought of that.

What patches do you like the best? I have some from Canadian tire.

Jeremy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:09 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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What SMP said.

I have used both thin and thick line, and the key is in the blob. You can also adapt by folding the patches and pushing the line through two layers.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:28 pm Reply with quote
Jeremy
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thanks guys

I just had another go and it works Smile I was able to get a blob perfect on the end. It was just a bit smaller then the barrel but when the patch was on it gave a snug fit. As for the patch, I was able to get it on by "starting" the hole in it with a small push pin then working the patch over the weed wacker line. Thanks again

Jeremy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:28 pm Reply with quote
Jeremy
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and for the heck of it, this is my 100 post Razz
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 6:20 pm Reply with quote
SMP
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Congratulations.. Centurion!

Does it feel like your a veteran?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 10:38 am Reply with quote
Jeremy
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Hi Tom

Didnt know if you got my PM.

You use something like a windex on your patches to clean the barrel right? after its dry what is the best oil to use to coat the barrel. RWS chamber or Crosman silicone oil?

Or is something like this new product from WD40 okay

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/wd-40-specialist-water-resistant-silicone-0381586p.html#.UoJKYifwDeE

Or is it a possible problem due to dieseling?

Thanks

Jeremy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 6:29 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Windex, 409, or the like should be fine. You don't have the heat, pressure, or combustion products like a firearm.

I don't oil the bore unless I'm going to put it away for a while.

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