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Questions about the Crosman G1 
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:45 am Reply with quote
Crosman140
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OK, so I'm doing this in the wrong order. I will be posting pictures and my full review of my new Crosman G1, but I need your help first.

Please understand that I have never shot a springer before, so I don't know what to expect as "normal."

Here's the situation
Once I break the barrel down and load in a pellet, when I lift the barrel back up to the firing position, it kind of bounces. I have to keep a firm amount of momentum on it in order to get it to click into place.

So, here is what it's like...I swing the barrel up, it kind of bounces I keep the pressure going and then it clicks.

If I don't do this, it seems to not latch properly and I've had the barrel drop down once or twice.

Is it typical with a springer to have to really swing it hard and keep the pressure on the barrel when raising the it back up, or should it just swing and click with minimal effort?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 7:29 am Reply with quote
dummyracer36
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with my break barrels, i dont exactly "swing" it closed. i load the pellet, then grasp the barrel and close it smoothly, when it reaches the point where it makes contact with the breach, i add firm pressure until it clicks.

keep in mind that it might just need some breaking in before it closes smoothly and clicks closed without needing to be slapped closed

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:44 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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My G1 had the same problem - flop it on a rest just a little too hard and the barrel would move downward. Polishing the latch parts and a little moly/graphite seems to have solved the problem.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:52 am Reply with quote
oddtodd
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I've never had that problem on my storm XT but I had a Chinese underlever that did the same thing.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 1:18 pm Reply with quote
Crosman140
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Slavia wrote:
My G1 had the same problem - flop it on a rest just a little too hard and the barrel would move downward. Polishing the latch parts and a little moly/graphite seems to have solved the problem.


What do you polish with?

And is the moly/graphite a powder?

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My Critter Gitters
.22 Crosman 140 (1955)
.177 Crosman G1 (2009)
.177 Crosman 1377 (2009)
.177 Daisy 880 (2019)
BB Daisy Red Ryder (2012)
BB Daisy Buck (2019)
BB Crosman 1600 (1980)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:51 pm Reply with quote
sniper
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my b-26 was the same way. after a couple of tins of pellets it became really smooth. only use enough force to close the barrel.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:15 pm Reply with quote
fritz
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You can make graphite powder quite easily.

Get a mortar and pestle (not from Sniper's rat hunting gear!), a good tupperwear and old stubby screw driver with a large grinding surface will also work. Take a pencil and slice it down with a razor blade to take out the major pieces of graphite and then smush them up with.

Mix with a bit of 70% isopropyl alcohol and put on a key to lubricate a lock, insert the key and cycle the lock action many times to get the mixture in there. (Yeah, completely off topic)

Anyway... I suppose you mix in the graphite powder with the moly lube.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:18 pm Reply with quote
Crosman140
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sniper wrote:
my b-26 was the same way. after a couple of tins of pellets it became really smooth. only use enough force to close the barrel.


I use a firm amount of effort, but no force.

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My Critter Gitters
.22 Crosman 140 (1955)
.177 Crosman G1 (2009)
.177 Crosman 1377 (2009)
.177 Daisy 880 (2019)
BB Daisy Red Ryder (2012)
BB Daisy Buck (2019)
BB Crosman 1600 (1980)
BB Marksman 1010 (1979)
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 6:43 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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I did my polishing with a diamond file, then 600 grit paper, then a buffing wheel with Tripoli abrasive (the brown stuff). A Dremel with a felt or cloth wheel should work also.

The lube was JM's paste, which I believe is 70% molybdenum disulfide. I think in this application any synthetic grease would work.

I also replaced the two plastic pivot washers with steel. (I ground the thickness down by hand with a Carborundum sharpening stone.) I set the tension on the pivot screw just to the point where the barrel would not fall under its own weight.

But here's the hard part - the screw kept loosening up. Blue Loctite helped a little, but I finally wound up adding a setscrew to keep the pivot screw head from turning:
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=1760&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 1:50 am Reply with quote
Amigo
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Be aware that pencil lead also has clay in it.

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 2:02 am Reply with quote
kanyon
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I had a gun that if yer droped it on the rest to hard the barrel would open... had to put 3 spacer washer in the back ot the breach latch spring...
2 of mine need that little extra to make them click home....
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 11:09 pm Reply with quote
BCSteel
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I ground a little (like 1 mm or so) off of the top of the breech end to facilitate easier and consistant lock up on my .177 phantom. On mine the barrel breech end was not made with a straight cut and the excess material was causing poor lock up. Works perfect every time now and only took a few minutes to fix when I realized what the problem was.

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 1:45 am Reply with quote
Midichlorian
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I got G1 but it don`t have this problem.

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 4:11 am Reply with quote
broommaster2000
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Midichlorian wrote:
I got G1 but it don`t have this problem.


Then there's somethin' wrong with yer gun. There's gotta be somethin' wrong with a Crosman, or it ain't a Crosman. Mr. Green

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2009 4:05 pm Reply with quote
Crosman140
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Midichlorian wrote:
I got G1 but it don`t have this problem.
Mine is getting better now. It closes much nicer.

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My Critter Gitters
.22 Crosman 140 (1955)
.177 Crosman G1 (2009)
.177 Crosman 1377 (2009)
.177 Daisy 880 (2019)
BB Daisy Red Ryder (2012)
BB Daisy Buck (2019)
BB Crosman 1600 (1980)
BB Marksman 1010 (1979)
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Questions about the Crosman G1 
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