Air Gun Home :: View topic

BEANER · Member

I posted below "phantom tuned from the factory?". So if you read that then you will know a little about my gun. So my gun doesnt have a twang, so im not worried about that.

What i want is better accuracy. It has excellent , i mean right on wherever i aim at about 7 meters. At ten meters it kinda bounces around. I hate the sights on this phantom and im trying to work on a way to change them. I cannot find any info so far on the net of anyone changing them with something else. I dont have any money to buy a ao scope since the scope that comes with the phantom is worthless since it doesnt have ao. I really want to scope the gun so i dont have to worry about changing the stock sights. But since i cant buy a scope as of yet, does anyone know what i can do to these sights i have now? Is there anything you have done to sights on a different gun? The rear sight is plastic and moves around a bit, its held down buy two screws. The elevation has a sort of weak spring in it, i tried a stiffer spring but that didnt help the movement. The side to side is a big problem too. But for now maybe some of you can answer me some questions.

1.I have plenty of power, so should i do anything to the spring?
2.I have no twang, so should i heat shrink the spring? If i should i found at home depo heat shrink tubing that is 3/4 inch, will that fit? I think they maybe only 4 inches long too.
3.I have no twang so should i polish the spring +deburr it and stick tar on it?
4.I dont have any noticeable barrel movement, should i change the plastic breech bushings with steel ones? and if so is it straitforward or are the washers different thicknesses on one end compared to the other. I think i have heard that.
5. I hate the trigger, i havent tried to adjust it yet, but im sure adjusting it will not do what i want it to,, i have found the micro-gtx screw/spring nut deal that i can make myself and put it in there. Is there anything wrong with the micro-gtx. I know tuna's trigger is great but i cant afford it right now. I have also found another website of a guy bending a peice of metal(maybe a popcan) into a s type shape and fitting it in the trigger mech. to make it adjustable. Pros and cons to that?
6. I really would like your input on all of this. I dont have much money and i want to make this gun the best i can with the limited resources that i do have. Im going to make a spring compressor too. Also, i know i will not find a crossman phantom seal today if this one tears while taking the whole piston assembly out. So should i even attempt it, how many seals get damaged while taking them out? PLease, im really sorry to take all this time with all these questions to be answered. I just need to do this right. Also one more thing. Does anyone know of a website maybe with pics of someone tuning, as in polishing what needs to be polished and explanations of what needs to be done and why it needs to be done? I hope people re-read this post cause there is a lot of questions that need to be answered.

Thank you sooooo much for any replies to any of my questions about the sights, and the tuning aspects also. And throw in any other tidbits you may have picked up along the way relating to tuning, and anything worth noting about the sport in general. Thanks again, you guys are a really wonderful bunch og guys, and gals if there is any!

leadman · Veteran Member

Beaner,

that sure is alot of questions but thats ok thats what we are here for.

for accuracy you could try polishing the muzzle crown.
first step should be to carefully and systematically disassemble the phantom polish any metal surface that rubs on metal until it is nice and shiny,

that would be the piston, spring, top hat, compression cylinder, trigger contact points, and sear piston contact points, start reassembling the rifle but when you go to put the barrel block back in the fork you should pop out the plastic bushings and put washers in thier place, it is just that simple no reshaping of them needed. if your sticking with open sights you dont really need these but when you put a scope on it you will want them. i wouldnt use tar but just put a light layer of moly paste on every metal part that comes in contact with other metal parts.

i have never heard of anyone putting heat shrink on ag springs so i cnt comment on that

hope this helps

Eric

BBGun Bob · Veteran Member

Beaner ,
Here is an excellent artical on the Quest and its sister the Phantom.It will answer alot of your questions.Being a Quest owner,,,and I love that rifle I read it and reread it to this day.There are exploded views,diagrams and explainations on how to fix most problems inherent with these rifles.
I have went as far as you can possibly go tuning my Quest to make it as accurate as my RWS 48.Altough I didn't succeed in beating the 48's accuracy. But I enjoyed the hell out of building it the way I wanted it. Switching it from .177 to.20 cal has done the most to make it accurate.The 48 will shoot thru the same hole at 30 yards repeatedly if clamped in a Gun vice and shot.The Quest will come very close but still open the hole less than half of a pellet size.
When they mention tar it is not tar as you know it (the black sh!t used in roofing)it is a very thick molybased grease.
mostly used in large concrete conveyers and very heavy equiptment
such as dozers and steam shovels,train wheels.Do not use shrink tubing on anything it breaks down with age and lubricants.
Anyway I am blabbing to much just read and reread and you will know everything about your Phantom.
And look up home made peep sights.That will help you with sighting problems.
THE LINK TO QUEST?PHANTOMS be sure to scroll the page.
http://my.tbaytel.net/~coopers@tbaytel.net/QuestPhantom/#PARTSDIAGRAM

BBGun Bob

Mar · Veteran Member

Make sure you take that scope stop off before pulling the piston out as I believe that was how I gouge my seal, from the scope stop screw.

AirGunEric · Site Admin

Mar · Veteran Member

That's a good point Eric, I should have done that also but it never dawn on me when I had everything apart. Well I haven't had a problem since changing seals, gun is shooting strong as ever still. Really like shooting that one since the trigger upgrade and all. Very Happy

BEANER · Member

Thanks for the reply guys, the stop screw issue isnt an issue for me cause i havent used one yet. The stock phantoms do not come with a stop screw with their cheap scope and mounts.

]When you speak of the barrel block going back into the fork, which part do you mean?

And does anyone else have anything they want to chime in on?

AirGunEric · Site Admin

Every Phantom should have the scope stop on it- it's the little metal tab on top of the receiver near the back of the scope rail.

The barrel block is the entire barrel assembly, including the "block" piece that meets and attaches to the receiver. There is a screw that holds the two together and the washers/spacers leadman mention is where the two rub together when cocking. In my experience, the plastic bushings in there don't need changing for quite awhile- seems that up/down movement due to a weak detent spring that holds the barrel up is more of a problem when the gun is new.

If you look at the parts diagram you will get a better idea:

Here is the complete partsguide with list:
http://www.airgunhome.com/images/quest/partsguides/C1K77-EVP.pdf

Part #20 is the spacer/washer, part #9 is the spring I mention.