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TNFrank · New Member

Ok, so I just watched a YouTube vid where a kid that likes to cuss a lot put a split washer inside the trigger to raise the release point of the trigger where it makes contact with the sears. Having worked as a Machinist for quite a few years I'm not a big fan of just throwing something like that into a trigger group. I'd rather have some actual specs as to O.D., I.D, thickness, ect. so I can either make or buy a part that will fit as it should. So, does anyone have any info they can give me as to what the actual size of the parts would be to do the mod so it'd work properly.

robert w · Senior Member

i seen that video and what he did was dangerous as it might let the piston not grab the sear proper and let it fire when your not ready thus causing injury or property damage . i belive that kid is a nut case

Slavia · Moderator

I don't know that there are published specs for that kind of mod, but there are only three measurements, two of which are easy:

1. The I.D. needs to be such that it fits over the pin.
2. The thickness needs to allow the collar to fit within the trigger blade, and will be approximately the thickness of the secondary sear, which fits into the same space (or "strut" as it's called in the parts list).
3. The O.D. is what determines where release occurs in the trigger's arc. Too big and you have a hair trigger, as robert w indicated.

I did this same kind of mod on my son's Gamo, only instead of washers I cut a collar from the head of a socket head screw (the pin goes through where the allen wrench would have gone). His gun discharged way back in the trigger's arc, where it was starting to swing upwards and felt awkward. The thin collar brought the release point forward a bit, while still allowing full sear engagement. The O.D. wasn't nearly as big as the washer option.

The beauty of the GRT and GTX replacement triggers is that they are true two-stage triggers, allow full sear engagement, are lighter than original, and are adjustable. I employed that kind of mod in my Crosman G1 and Titan, adjustable with a screw in the G1 and with shims in the Titan. I made my own parts, but with the same GRT/GTX geometry. It is true that a $40 GRT/GTX trigger costs way more than a couple of washers, but I think it's worth the cost.

As an aside - you can "try fit" trigger parts without cocking and firing the gun. Put the action (without stock) upside down on a table in front of you. Insert a very small screwdriver between the primary sear and tube, gently prying upwards. "Primary sear" means the one that holds the piston, "upwards" means toward the trigger, and "gently" means just enough pressure to contact the trigger parts. In this way you can feel what's going on with the trigger, since the screwdriver will flop loose when the sear breaks.

donwalk · Veteran Member

i would suggest going with the aftermarket trigger from AoA.

i installed one on my NP Trail and it's now a different rifle.

i stoned any surface that was accessible that i could and used some moly lube in appropriate contact areas.

it now works wonderfully.

i did other 'mods' that helped enhance performance of the rifle, too, but without the trigger work/change, it is, IMO, not a very good rifle.

radar · Silver Status Member

I may be getting an NP Trail, .22, All Weather for my birthday this month. Are there any online instructions for this? I am definitely re-doing something with the trigger. Also, does anyone know what the Chinese model is? e.g. A Crosman Quest is a B18/19 aka XS19, I believe. Like that...any numbers so I can hunt for info, too?

Rob

donwalk · Veteran Member

AirGunEric · Site Admin

Staffy1 · Member

robert w · Senior Member

i watched that smart azz kid and if he was my kid he would be pickin his butt up off the floor. i have installed some cdt triggers and had to adjust just 1 out of 4 installed . my big cat was the only trigger i had to change . but they do what the factory didnt do

SteveFury · Member

I had put a washer/shim on the trigger but the travel was way too short, short enough to disable the safety. I could have reduced the diameter of the shim, but I elected to replace the heavy trigger spring instead.

My kid had an old plastic toy gun laying around which he got ~15 years ago (never used anymore). I took it apart and used its very light trigger spring. I also replaced the original trigger adjustment screw with one about 4mm longer taken from the spare screw jar.

I *really* like the trigger now.
The safety functions, it's a fairly long but very light pull up to the 2nd stage and just a bit further to fire.

Crosman Viper .22

JJones75 · New Member

I bought a NP-XL early last week to use for close varmint shooting , the rifle is very accurate with several brands of pellets but the trigger is Horrendous I was looking at the replacement parts from Airguns of Arizona and i'm wondering which one of the two they offer for that gun would give me the best trigger pull
the Nitro custom advertises a 1.5 lb pull with "positive and creepless second stage" i'm guessing you need a spring upgrade to fix the mile long first stage.
the GTX gen II wich seems to be just a replacement

AirGunEric · Site Admin

There is no "simple" rework to make the trigger perform as it really should (i.e. a new spring or a simple deburr)- the GTX II is what you need.

Slavia · Moderator

Mentolio · Veteran Member

I modded my Crosman crap-o-la trigger in a manner similar to the foul-mouthed kid, but used a bronze bushing that I worked down to a usable diameter. It made the trigger a lot lighter, but really no more predictable. If you're hell bent on not spending the dough, you might want to experiment. I'm going to find someone who sells the Charlie Detuna trigger (GTRiii I think) and buy that. Once I get a better scope, a nice, smooth, real two stage trigger should fix whatever still ails me. Maybe someday Crosman will catch up to other manufacturers...sigh...

Chevota · Guest

I have a trigger mod for that gun if you're interested, it involves taking the gun apart, but imo you should do that anyway for a tune and new seal, but it's up to you. If you don't want to take the gun apart you can still do a good portion of the trigger work. No need for an expensive aftermarket trigger imo. -email@email.com address deleted- if you want it

Slavia: Unfortunately the first stage in the Crosman trigger does nothing, it's just empty slack. You can change that if you install a screw in the right spot, but the trigger is very hard to drill/tap