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Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 8:49 pm |
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| garththomas |
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| Joined: 12 Jan 2012 |
| Posts: 165 |
| Location: Ontario, Canada |
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| I've been working on a new stock for my QB57. I decided after seeing all the new laminate stocks out there to make it out of Baltic Birch plywood, I had hoped to stain it some non conventional color. But due to the shape I have come up with the veneer effect won't work, too many flat surfaces, so now I'm going to paint it but I want to use bed liner or rock chip guard first then accent with olivedrab or desertsand Krylon. Baltic birch ply is quite soft, good for sanding and filing but now I'm worried that what ever I put on will dent too easily. So that is why I'm considering the rock chip spray or the bed liner spray. I was going to prime it first then apply the protective coating then paint over that. Any pointers or suggestions would be appreciated. Pics will be coming, I was hoping to be finished over the next two weeks. |
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Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 10:35 pm |
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| toadmyster223 |
| Senior Member |

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| Joined: 20 Mar 2012 |
| Posts: 501 |
| Location: Fayette Nam, PA |
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| I think that should work and work well. The stuff should stick to wood like super glue. I know a guy that did his Harley in bed liner. Its pretty BA |
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Posted: Sat May 19, 2012 6:46 am |
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| Slavia |
| Moderator |

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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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As far as dents, soft wood under bed liner will still dent - the coating isn't armor. Unless you really goober on the liner it will also show any wood pores or sandpaper scratches underneath. I am partial to Plastic Wood brand filler - it seems harder and less crumbly than other brands.
I would suggest shellac to seal the wood. It penetrates, dries quickly, and solvent welds itself to the previous coat. Put on enough coats to fill the pores and scratches, and then sand it out to about 300 grit to give some "tooth" for the primer. That will also remove drips, sags, and runs.
Painting over the bed liner will work fine - I have done it. The bed liner is matte enough that the paint will grip. You might also consider a final coat of clear polyurethane for durability - that stuff is tough. Sniper talked me into using it and I have never regretted it. |
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Posted: Sat May 19, 2012 10:13 pm |
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| toadmyster223 |
| Senior Member |

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| Joined: 20 Mar 2012 |
| Posts: 501 |
| Location: Fayette Nam, PA |
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| Or do what I'd do....get a sharper knife and carve something harder :P |
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:06 pm |
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| Canuck Bob |
| New Member |

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| Location: Calgary, AB, Canada |
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I've not tried this on a gun.
There are very runny epoxy products available to saturate punky wood and harden them up. Kits are available at some home centres. It might be worth a try.
I hardened up some spruce in a woodworking project and it was very robust. I kept the wood wet and allowed it to soak up as much epoxy as it would take. After it cured I did a second coat. |
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 5:31 pm |
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| garththomas |
| Veteran Member |

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| Joined: 12 Jan 2012 |
| Posts: 165 |
| Location: Ontario, Canada |
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| Well I have just tried the bedliner spray yesterday after priming and it took a bit of practice and several coats to get the texture I wanted but I am very happy with the finish. I handled it quite a bit today as well as put it in the wood vise to make an alteration and it seems very durable. I also used some olive green krylon for some accents and that has turned out well so hopefully by the weekend I will have some decent pictures to post. I'm just trying to line up a scope or red dot since I've eliminated the open sights. |
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_________________ QB57
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:30 pm |
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| toadmyster223 |
| Senior Member |

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| Joined: 20 Mar 2012 |
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| Location: Fayette Nam, PA |
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