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airgun crown questions 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:36 pm Reply with quote
cyberfish2
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Joined: 18 Apr 2010
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Location: N. Calif.
Ok, here's what happens when you are retired and have too much time on your hands. I read the blog on PA about inserting pellets. Using the tip of a ball point pen, getting the pellets flush with the bore.
I had a close look at my three airguns: the G. Whisper has a substantial chamber( I refer to the slight taper where the pellet skirt sits flush with the end of the barrel.) The C. Titan looks to have zero chamber. The Beeman RS2 has a tiny, but somewhat irregular, chamber on both the .22 & .177 barrels.
I'm getting picky here. Generally speaking, some pellets stick out, some will slide down into the barrel when seated with the tip of a ball point pen. Some seat flush, just using my thumb. I understand about the differences in pellet geometry affecting fit, and accuracy.
If I rework the chamber, shouldn't it be lapped at an angle to match the back of the pellet skirt? And only enough to get the pellet to fit flush, using my thumb?
The Gamo shoots well with what I think is already too much chamber depth, so I will leave it alone. The Beeman just needs a cleanup(?). What do I do with the C. Titan? It seems to need some chamber, as there is not much group consistency, and I know the pellets shouldn't protrude.
I know the answers are out there, so thanks in advance.


Last edited by cyberfish2 on Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:18 pm; edited 2 times in total

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.22 Gamo Whisper w/diy GP
.22 Crosman Titan GP
.22/.177 Beeman RS2
.177 Daisy 880
Several pistols and antique airguns.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:22 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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It's called the "leade" or chamber.... the "crown" is at the muzzle end.... If you seat pellets BELOW flush you will likely find you lose velocity.... Having them sit flush is the ideal situation.... As long as they are not being crushed when you close the breech, they are probably OK....

Bob

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 5:16 pm Reply with quote
cyberfish2
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Location: N. Calif.
rsterne wrote:
It's called the "leade" or chamber.... the "crown" is at the muzzle end.... If you seat pellets BELOW flush you will likely find you lose velocity.... Having them sit flush is the ideal situation.... As long as they are not being crushed when you close the breech, they are probably OK....

Bob

Thanks, I edited the post to "chamber".
From what I read, the skirt size is just barely larger than the pellet head on most good quality ammo. Maybe the best solution would be to stop using the ones that stick out, or don't seat evenly with the rear chamber face?

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Tech Force Contender 87
.22 Gamo Whisper w/diy GP
.22 Crosman Titan GP
.22/.177 Beeman RS2
.177 Daisy 880
Several pistols and antique airguns.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:32 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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The solution is to use the ammo that is the most accurate in your gun.... If you can't get it to shoot well with ANY pellets, then have a look at altering the leade into the chamber....

Bob

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:28 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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I use seating tools in some situations. It makes a big difference when I shoot Meisterkugeln's in my Slavia 631 (faster and more accurate), or Ultramags in my G1 (same speed but more accurate). In other cases there isn't enough improvement to warrant the fuss. You just have to experiment.

My seating tools have a domed end for trueing and flaring the skirt. Seating them slightly past the leade chamfer swages them down to uniform size. I read somewhere that you shouldn't seat pellets more than 0.050" past flush, so my seating tools are adjustable. The right angle tool is for my Marksman 2004 and Industry B3-2.



Some more information: http://www.pyramydair.com/article/How_to_load_pellets_in_airguns_Part_1_spring_piston_guns_November_2010/80

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airgun crown questions 
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