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BennyProfane · New Member

Hey all,

Decided to join an air gun forum finally, and just basically googled it and found this one, and it seems great.

I've had a Daisy Powerline 880 for a few years now, and just finally got what I've wanted for years - a Crosman 1377. I love them both. When it comes to bang for your buck, I have to say the 880 is probably the best way to get mid to high(ish) grade performance in a lower priced gun. I'm really impressed.

The Crosman 1377 also impresses me, and I can't wait to modify it. Unfortunately I can't afford to do everything I want to it right away, so here are my plans for now:

-24 inch barrel (I actually don't think I'm going to cut it down)
-Shoulder stock
-Flat top piston

It seems like those are the easiest and cheapest upgrades I can do that will increase accuracy and velocity. Oh, and in a little bit I plan on squashing the trigger spring a bit.

Any thoughts on my modifications?

Also, I don't really think it needs it but are there any mods that can be done to the 880? I know it's not as standardized/popular as the 1377.

Alstone · Moderator & Site Supporter

Welcome to AirGunHome Benny.

There are plenty of 1377 owner’s here so I sure you will get all the information you need.

Nice choice by the way

Al

Slavia · Moderator

Welcome to the forum! You're right, there aren't as many mods for the 880, but people speak highly of them. Who knows, you might be the one to write the book on the 880. This is the place to do it.

SMP · Silver Status Member

Welcome to the forum.

For 1377 trigger springs I go to the local hardware with the roll out tray of utility springs and buy the one that is about 1/2 as strong as the stock unit. I think they are 5/16" OD if I remember correctly. Possibly 9/32"

So 25 cents for a spring that completely changes the character of the shot.

radar · Silver Status Member

Welcome to the forum.

I did some Daisy 901 mods and it is internally the same as the model 880 except for a few details on the barrel shroud and reciever screw locations, but I can't find the post...I think it was on this forum, but I will paste a copy here for you:
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Just to stay out of trouble, I don't recommend anyone getting inside their airguns, because I never know what anyone else can or can't do. But here's a little power mod I did to my Daisy 901. I got about 10% more muzzle energy with it. But probably not a lot more can be done with this design.

This is where the the hammer opens the valve…and not very much.

The hammer is the more or less flat bar that pries open the valve stem quickly as it swings up and hits it after the trigger is pulled.

As the hammer flies upward (in the picture) it catches the C-clip on the valve stem, knocking it open and holding it open until the gun is cocked again. The little chamber area under the valve stem is where the pressurized air is contained after pumping up the gun. This valve allows the air to blast upwards through a port into the chamber, driving out the pellet.

In order to open the valve sooner and further to help airflow, I cleaned and roughed up the hammer notch that hits the valve and used J-B Weld to fasten a small steel washer over it.

Shaped and filed:

I also stretched the hammer spring just a little to make it stronger. (Safety glasses on whenever working with, removing, or installing springs.)

This is where it fits over the spring boss on the hammer.

This is the trigger safety catch that will not allow the trigger to be pulled until the bolt is closed.

It goes in like this if it falls out. The end has to drop into that little shelf there.

The hammer holds it in.

The trigger has a little nub that has to go up through the rectangular hole in the safety tab.

This was a little tricky. I take the cross pin out of the hammer and slide it to the rear of the action to get some space between the hammer and trigger spring bosses in order to get the spring to fit between them. Then I shove the hammer forward again and try to get the hammer pin hole to line up with the holes in the sides of the housing. If it hangs up not wanting to go forward, it is usually that safety tab is popping up and need a finger to push it down while the hammer is aligned. The safety tab likes to pop up and out of that little ledge if it isn’t held down. A nail, a little smaller than the hole on one side, and a pin punch on the other helped.

The top view of the safety tab as it sets. If it is sticking all the way up so the nose isn’t caught under the ledge there, the bolt will not close. Note this safety has nothing to do with the trigger block safety that you operate by hand.

BennyProfane · New Member

Wow, thanks radar, lot of information in one post. But frankly I don't think I'd be comfortable doing something like that. I don't have enough experience working with air guns to attempt it, I'd be worried about breaking or messing something up. Maybe some day, but not now.

As for the 1377 trigger spring, I just took it out and squashed it a bit. I've read stories of people messing it up so that the trigger won't even lock back, or as soon as you turn the safety off it fires. But I think I got lucky because I squashed it a bit, put it back in, and now it's PERFECT. Just a gentle squeeze sets it off. Much less shaking when pulling the trigger.

SMP · Silver Status Member