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Center point issue 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:53 pm Reply with quote
Philly
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Just bought a Benjamin Titan Nitro Gp, scope is a Center Point 4x32. I've noticed that the Ocular is adjustable but there is no way to secure it in place the locking ring seems to be just cosmetic and does not move? Is this the design or do I have a scope that was severely cross threaded at the factory and won't move? I intend to replace it with something better after break in.New to the forum, thanks for any input..
Phil

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:14 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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Some eyepieces have a locking ring, in others, they just rely on friction to hold the adjustment.... Once you have it adjusted for your eye, you don't use it after that.... set it and forget it....

Bob

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 4:01 pm Reply with quote
Philly
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rsterne wrote:
Some eyepieces have a locking ring, in others, they just rely on friction to hold the adjustment.... Once you have it adjusted for your eye, you don't use it after that.... set it and forget it....

Bob


Thanks, that would be fine but the thing just wobbles around when turned out a few turns. May tape it in place till I get a new scope.
PhiL

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:07 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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Sounds like a defect....

Bob

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:45 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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The locking ring should operate.

Picture:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:33 pm Reply with quote
Philly
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Thanks Guys, found a 3x9 Simmons in the basement, will mount that tomorrow and that should end the problem.
Phil

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:45 am Reply with quote
shawnhu
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Philly,

If it's a defect, Crosman will replace the scope for you. Just give them a call and see what they say.

If you intend to discard the scope, I'd be more than happy to take it off your hands should you choose that route.

Shawn
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:27 pm Reply with quote
Philly
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Ok, scope problem solved, the Simmons works great. New problem, I have installed my Charlie Da Tuna trigger and am having a b***h of a time adjusting it. I'm going from hair trigger to safety not holding when on and I press trigger. Have an experienced buddy coming over tomorrow so enough for tonight.
Phil

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:55 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Put the triggers adjustments in the center/middle positioning (both screws) and start over.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 1:17 am Reply with quote
Philly
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AirGunEric wrote:
Put the triggers adjustments in the center/middle positioning (both screws) and start over.


How do I determine where the mid setting is? Turn them all the way in or out and come back half way? Thanks for the help.
Phil

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 2:05 am Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Just back out the screws until they are completely receded into the trigger blade housing. Did you see the instructions for adjusting it?

The original trigger was designed by another guy, same instructions:

http://www.scopesandammo.com/storefront/instructions/GTXadjust.pdf

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 2:52 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Read the instructions completely. They cover problems with the safety:
http://www.charliedatuna.com/airgun_docs/GRT-III%20trigger%20blade%20instructions.pdf

There are apparently some manufacturing differences in the intermediate sear (strut) of the Titans, which can cause the "hair trigger" effect. Read about it here:
http://www.charliedatuna.com/airgun_docs/Crosman%20Titan%20GP%20Trigger.pdf

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 3:16 am Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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I should've paid attention to the first line- "TitanGP", Doh!

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:46 am Reply with quote
Philly
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AirGunEric wrote:
Just back out the screws until they are completely receded into the trigger blade housing. Did you see the instructions for adjusting it?

The original trigger was designed by another guy, same instructions:

http://www.scopesandammo.com/storefront/instructions/GTXadjust.pdf


Eric, thanks, I was laying in bed last night thinking that I need to take the action out and look at the mechanics. Your link really explains it well, I'll look at it today. Thanks for the help guys.

I did read the instruction from CDT and did email him about the fit in the Titan he said it would fit so I gave it a shot. Love the rifle, if I can get the trigger to work properly I feel it will fit my needs as a small game rifle.
Phil

EDIT:
Just took a look at it, question, in the uncocked position should the strut be below the top edge of the sear as shown in picture 3? Mine sits above the sear top surface and has about .030" clearance? There is an overlap but very short. as shown in picture 4.

Sorry, should this be in another section and not Optics? I seem to have gotten off topic.
Phil

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 12:50 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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With the gun out of the action all you can really feel is the first-to-second stage transition, and not the point where the sear breaks. (It's not really safe to cock or test fire it that way.) Do this:

Insert a very small screwdriver between the primary sear and the compression tube. Using very light pressure, pry the sear away from the tube. (By light I mean one fingertip.) Then test the trigger - when the sear breaks the sear will snap up (away from the tube) and the screwdriver will flop loose. Doing your adjustments this way will save a lot of test firing. This won't be exact (because the force of the mainspring stresses the parts differently), but it will get you very close.


To answer your question, here is my Titan, uncocked, with the trigger all the way forward (at rest). There is indeed a little space between the primary sear and strut (secondary sear). When it's cocked they will be pushed together:

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Center point issue 
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