 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | Help... Hurricane gave my RWS34 a bath..... |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:57 am |
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| J5311 |
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| Joined: 30 Aug 2009 |
| Posts: 35 |
| Location: NJ |
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well I left my rifle in my cabin what I thought was a high place only to find out that 10ft above water wasn't high enough. (cabin is next to a small stream)
I finally broke it down. (first time taking any rifle apart.)
all parts were given a bath with rem oil. The piston was rusted and pitting in sued. I tried to sand it down with high grit sand paper but its seems deep. Inside of the piston I cannot seem to reach. and is rusted..... the spring has rust and I've removed most of it. Its been sitting in the rem oil for like 2 days....
The compression tube seems ok........ but may have some surface rust. I cant really see the whole way down but I've used a small paint roller with the rem oil to clean the area.
My questions are now that i'm ready to rebuild this thing what type of greases should I buy and how much and where do I apply them.
I'm concerned that it's too late for this rifle already and have come to terms that I might be getting this http://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Diana_RWS_350_Magnum_177_T05_Trigger/396
"If you are going to buy a new one anyway, why try to fix this one?"
I'm doing it for a learning experience. Its not like I shoot all the time but I do enjoy it. And If I can somewhat fix the 34 then Great!
any help is greatly appreciated [/url] |
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:04 pm |
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| SMP |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Joined: 04 Feb 2011 |
| Posts: 1183 |
| Location: Just south of "Out There"- Land O Lakes Ontario |
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The grease you need is called moly grease.
You can buy it from Honda (motorcycle) as caliper grease
Jim Macarri
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm
And original Moly Slip (in the can)
What I would do first is affix a piece of 3m scotchbrite to a dowel with enough wraps to be a loose fit in the compression tube and spin that with a drill in the tube slowly while drawing it in and out continuously.
The tube is the main area where rust and pitting could cause real grief and shred the seal.
As for where to put the lubes here is a nice photo essay I guy did of a basic springer rebuild
http://losttourist-losttourist.blogspot.com/2008/05/crosman-phantom-500-disassembly-guide.html
Basically the moly gets dry burnished into the tube with a rag on a dowel
Then a LIGHT coat gets applied to all moving surfaces
outside and inside the piston
spring
top hat and spring block
Try to get all the rust from inside the piston as well using the scotchbrite on a stick method
Good Luck |
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_________________ Sean
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:35 pm |
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| J5311 |
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| Joined: 30 Aug 2009 |
| Posts: 35 |
| Location: NJ |
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thnk you so much for responding quickly.... and with everything else i need to know.....
but one thing with the scotch bright is wouldn't it just create more scratches?
and should i just use the scotch bright long enough until the tube is ...uniform...?
then after that i clean the tube with the rem oil and then what...?
should i use alcohol to dry it out? or just remove the access, dry it and then 2 drops of the chamber lube. |
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:00 pm |
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| SMP |
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| Joined: 04 Feb 2011 |
| Posts: 1183 |
| Location: Just south of "Out There"- Land O Lakes Ontario |
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Actually microscopic scratches in an X pattern is what your after. the little grooves hold lubricant and allow the seal to seat.. If the tube is mirror smooth the seal will "fart" (similar to hydroplaning on bald tires)
Clean the tube really well after with hot soapy water.
Then burnish it dry with moly paste
Add the chamber oil after you get it assemble thru the port as normal |
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_________________ Sean
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:50 pm |
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| J5311 |
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| Joined: 30 Aug 2009 |
| Posts: 35 |
| Location: NJ |
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i bought the green scotch bright, i could have gotten the second rougher but i didn't want to make it really bad. I can still see the pitting in the tube so i think it's trashed..... or just didn't do anything. what do you guys think?
ps: it has taken off the blueing in the chamber....... |
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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:30 pm |
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| SMP |
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| Joined: 04 Feb 2011 |
| Posts: 1183 |
| Location: Just south of "Out There"- Land O Lakes Ontario |
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The pitting in the tube although not awesome will probably not have too much affect...as long as it's pitting and not scaling.
Green is a good choice especially for what your facing. If anything you could follow up with the maroon which is one grit finer.
Keep going...as you said there is nothing to lose here.
I think you'll be surprised to find the rifle will function just fine....I've resuscitated some awful hunks of rust. |
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_________________ Sean
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Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:59 am |
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| J5311 |
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| Joined: 30 Aug 2009 |
| Posts: 35 |
| Location: NJ |
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I've assembled the rifle and have put some cleaning pellets through it..... it's so much louder. I dent know if it because its deseling or because of the remnants of rust on the spring.
Now to solve that I could buy the upgrade kit from Macarri. OR I could just spend the money for a new rifle and run this into the ground. |
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Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:06 am |
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| MSEO |
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| I have found that Evapo-rust does a good job on rusty items. I have never tried it on an air gun, though. It would certainly be good for the hard to get at parts inside the piston etc. |
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