 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | sighting in |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:35 am |
|
|
| rawhide |
| Member |

|
 |
| Joined: 01 Jun 2011 |
| Posts: 30 |
| Location: washington |
|
|
 |
| wondering at what yardage do most people sight there scopes in for on spring guns? I got a crosmen quest 1000 .177 with a a 3x9x32 centerpiont scope on it. what yadage would be good for it? |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:30 pm |
|
|
| Slavia |
| Moderator |

 |
 |
| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
| Posts: 4382 |
| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
|
|
 |
I do 10 meters for indoors and 25 yards for outdoors. The simple answer is to zero it at the range you're most likely to shoot, and then get used to how much holdover/under is necessary at other ranges.
A more complicated answer is to measure your velocity with a chronograph and use a computer ballistics program like Chairgun. Decide on an acceptable variance from the zero (say, +/- 1/2" from the point of aim) and then use the software to find a zero range that will make that happen over the widest possible band of distances. (This is the technical definition of "point blank range" - the media often errs and uses the phrase to mean "near the muzzle.") |
|
_________________
¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego! |
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 3:18 pm |
|
|
| domer_pyle |
| Senior Member |

|
 |
| Joined: 17 Sep 2009 |
| Posts: 523 |
|
|
|
 |
I zero so the highest above the line of sight the pellet goes is a half inch. With my Quest zipping CPHP at 971 ave. I believe it's zeroed at 42 yards or very close to it. Before that it was at about 890ish and was zeroed for just over 38 yards.
My B3-3 which is a piece of gold is zipping the same pellets at a very consistant 660 ave. and is set at 30 yards. With the 7.4gr Crosman pointed cheapies it does a solid 675 so I'd likely give it a few clicks down if I switch back to them.
It has a bit to do with scope height though too, if you have a low mounted scope the peak of the trajectory will be closer than if you have high mounts, and you'll likely need to learn your trajectory to be able to know how much holdunder/over to use at different ranges.
But like Slavia said, put it where most of your shooting will be done and learn the flight path and you should have no problems |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 5:56 pm |
|
|
| Crosman140 |
| Senior Member |

 |
 |
| Joined: 13 Dec 2008 |
| Posts: 663 |
| Location: USA |
|
|
 |
| Slavia wrote: |
| I do 10 meters for indoors and 25 yards for outdoors. The simple answer is to zero it at the range you're most likely to shoot, and then get used to how much holdover/under is necessary at other ranges. |
I set mine the same.
| Quote: |
A more complicated answer is to measure your velocity with a chronograph and use a computer ballistics program like Chairgun. Decide on an acceptable variance from the zero (say, +/- 1/2" from the point of aim) and then use the software to find a zero range that will make that happen over the widest possible band of distances. (This is the technical definition of "point blank range" - the media often errs and uses the phrase to mean "near the muzzle.") |
I've been messing around more with Chairgun and can't wait to try out my findings on the range. |
|
_________________ My Critter Gitters
.22 Crosman 140 (1955)
.177 Crosman G1 (2009)
.177 Crosman 1377 (2009)
.177 Daisy 880 (2019)
BB Daisy Red Ryder (2012)
BB Daisy Buck (2019)
BB Crosman 1600 (1980)
BB Marksman 1010 (1979) |
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:00 pm |
|
|
| oddtodd |
| Silver Status Member |

 |
 |
| Joined: 30 Dec 2008 |
| Posts: 2029 |
| Location: Richmond, IN USA |
|
|
 |
| I've been playing with chairgun and it is too cool! I keep playing with different pellet weights and ballistic coeffecients, and it just gets better with each try. lol I recommend this program to anyone wanting to buy a chrony and seeing just what a few things change with just a touch. |
|
_________________ Airguns: Two starlings talking "Larry, did you hear that? Larry?? LARRY!!!!" |
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 3:54 am |
|
|
| WhitleyStu |
| Veteran Member |

 |
 |
| Joined: 15 Feb 2011 |
| Posts: 202 |
| Location: NE Indiana U.S.A. |
|
|
 |
|
Last edited by WhitleyStu on Tue Jun 07, 2011 2:35 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 8:20 am |
|
|
| rawhide |
| Member |

|
 |
| Joined: 01 Jun 2011 |
| Posts: 30 |
| Location: washington |
|
|
 |
| Slavia wrote: |
I do 10 meters for indoors and 25 yards for outdoors. The simple answer is to zero it at the range you're most likely to shoot, and then get used to how much holdover/under is necessary at other ranges.
A more complicated answer is to measure your velocity with a chronograph and use a computer ballistics program like Chairgun. Decide on an acceptable variance from the zero (say, +/- 1/2" from the point of aim) and then use the software to find a zero range that will make that happen over the widest possible band of distances. (This is the technical definition of "point blank range" - the media often errs and uses the phrase to mean "near the muzzle.") |
ok thats what I thought. well I made a target out of old wood around the house and some card board. put a 1 nich square piece off tape on it and set it up for shooting. with rws field line pointed pellets 8.2 grains its dead on! the gun shoots touching groups. |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
Note: If you are seeing "Please enter your username and password to log in." Your browser cookies have been reset
or you need to register to access the topic in question. Use the 'Register' button near the top left of this page.
|