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Bronze thrust washer reliability? 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:02 am Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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Hey guys new to the forum and airgunning. I've been doing a lot of reaserch for the crosman phantom 1000 and came to realize the velocity wont get much better from stock.

I broke the spring in the Phantom with probably just over 3,000 or so shots not to certain.
I'm in the process of giving it a GTR III triger, debur, Compression chamber hone, lube tune, some piston washers just for a little extra power and for spring torque, and a bronze thrust washer on the sprin guide, OD .772 ID .482 thickness .129. I'm a little worried that this bronze washer isn't going to hold up to the stress of the spring. I had to drill it out to the ID just so i could get it to work. In the process of doing so, I shattered two of the washers. Does anyone think this will hold up, or can anyone direct me to where I can get one that is with in the dimensions of OD.800 ID .480 (Thickness doesn't bother me Just probably nothing thicker than .200)?

I have already been to John Macarri's site looking at his spring guide power spacer. Its an ID .562. Just seems a little to big with my spring guide only being .474 of an inch.

Thanks for listening
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Re: Bronze thrust washer reliability? 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:59 am Reply with quote
kanyon
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curbcheck101 wrote:
Hey guys new to the forum and airgunning. I've been doing a lot of reaserch for the crosman phantom 1000 and came to realize the velocity wont get much better from stock.

I broke the spring in the Phantom with probably just over 3,000 or so shots not to certain.
I'm in the process of giving it a GTR III triger, debur, Compression chamber hone, lube tune, some piston washers just for a little extra power and for spring torque, and a bronze thrust washer on the sprin guide, OD .772 ID .482 thickness .129. I'm a little worried that this bronze washer isn't going to hold up to the stress of the spring. I had to drill it out to the ID just so i could get it to work. In the process of doing so, I shattered two of the washers. Does anyone think this will hold up, or can anyone direct me to where I can get one that is with in the dimensions of OD.800 ID .480 (Thickness doesn't bother me Just probably nothing thicker than .200)?

I have already been to John Macarri's site looking at his spring guide power spacer. Its an ID .562. Just seems a little to big with my spring guide only being .474 of an inch.

Thanks for listening


Hi..
You won't have any probs with the brass washer...
I use stainless in my guide sets..

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:15 am Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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Are you sure with the fact that I broke two of them in the drilling process? Your power spacer is a lot thicker than mine too.







Thanks for the info though.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:34 am Reply with quote
kanyon
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curbcheck101 wrote:
Are you sure with the fact that I broke two of them in the drilling process? Your power spacer is a lot thicker than mine too.







Thanks for the info though.


Hi..
Ok...what type of Brass /bronze are they Question

May pay to go to stainless

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:48 am Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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I got it from the local hardware store. All I can tell you is they were in the thrust bearing box. I would go to stainless, hardened steel or even copper but I can't find anything localy or on the internet with close enough tolerance.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 4:38 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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I use naval bronze for thrust washers on a TX200, they do tend to wear a bit over a year, but not enough to alter the settings.

Al

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:31 am Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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Thanks for the info I guess I'll polish it up and install it. Hopefully everything works out.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:20 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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If they are brass, it is not a problem.... If they are "sintered bronze" of the type used in "oilite" bushing they are brittle and unsuitable for that application where you are sustaining what is nearly an impact.... My guess is they will shatter....

"Oilite" sintered bronze are not much more than bronze particles fused together under heat and pressure to create a porous surface that will hold lubricant for bushings and thrust washers.... It is very brittle, and would break when you try and drill it....

Bob

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 2:44 pm Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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Quote:
If they are brass, it is not a problem.... If they are "sintered bronze" of the type used in "oilite" bushing they are brittle and unsuitable for that application where you are sustaining what is nearly an impact.... My guess is they will shatter....

"Oilite" sintered bronze are not much more than bronze particles fused together under heat and pressure to create a porous surface that will hold lubricant for bushings and thrust washers.... It is very brittle, and would break when you try and drill it....



yea that sounds most likely what I have.

Do you know where I can get anything that will work with the tolerances I stated in my first message?
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 7:00 pm Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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I found a chrome plated steel spacer. I need to drill out the center but it should work out. I'm going to sand off all the chrome on contact points but leave it on the exterior of the spacer. Unless you guys think it will chip away over time.

Thanks for the input. It was very helpful.
I love this forum. Lots of info in here.


Next year or so I might look into custom guides and spring seat..
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:12 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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There is not alot of room for using alot of spacers inside a Phantom 1000- for the purposes of creating more pre-load, most people use 2-3 plated and polished 1/4" washers behind the front spring guide where they acts as spacers and bushings with no ill effect- any more and you will likely get coil bind- which will also occur if you make ay spacer/thrust washer too long.

If you have a newer Phantom with the rear steel thrust washer (as opposed to the earlier "synthetic" unit)- why replace it? It does its job just fine, polish the spring contact areas and the rear where it sits on the guide and lube it properly.

One thing to remember about standard spring-guns- they are not all that complex, but alot of people have attempted to dream up all sorts of complex mechanics to "improve" them- stick with the basics and you should be fine- otherwise you may spend a great deal of time purchasing snake-oil products and spending untold amounts of time creating parts when an off-the-shelf hardware store item might be just as/more useful.

An interesting set of products are the Vortek kits- which essentially are a deluxe set of guides (for the purposes of removing spring "twang" and eliminating as much vibration as possible) and a custom spring. Using them, however, will not yield "maximum power"- but a good balance of power vs. shootability. There are no Vortek kits for any of the Crosman products, but if you can see pictures of one- you may be able to get an idea of what is being done. Short of this level of complexity however, most "tricks" to try and improve things will only net greater power, or smoother shooting, but not both, over a factory gun.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:57 pm Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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Quote:
There is not alot of room for using alot of spacers inside a Phantom 1000- for the purposes of creating more pre-load, most people use 2-3 plated and polished 1/4" washers behind the front spring guide where they acts as spacers and bushings with no ill effect- any more and you will likely get coil bind- which will also occur if you make ay spacer/thrust washer too long.

If you have a newer Phantom with the rear steel thrust washer (as opposed to the earlier "synthetic" unit)- why replace it? It does its job just fine, polish the spring contact areas and the rear where it sits on the guide and lube it properly.

One thing to remember about standard spring-guns- they are not all that complex, but alot of people have attempted to dream up all sorts of complex mechanics to "improve" them- stick with the basics and you should be fine- otherwise you may spend a great deal of time purchasing snake-oil products and spending untold amounts of time creating parts when an off-the-shelf hardware store item might be just as/more useful.

An interesting set of products are the Vortek kits- which essentially are a deluxe set of guides (for the purposes of removing spring "twang" and eliminating as much vibration as possible) and a custom spring. Using them, however, will not yield "maximum power"- but a good balance of power vs. shootability. There are no Vortek kits for any of the Crosman products, but if you can see pictures of one- you may be able to get an idea of what is being done. Short of this level of complexity however, most "tricks" to try and improve things will only net greater power, or smoother shooting, but not both, over a factory gun.


The two main reasons i want the spacer is just for protecting the spring seat and spring torque. When i tore the gun apart the spring deformed the tip of the seat. I sanded it down back to flat and polished it off. I am hoping this will help in spring torque mainly. If i get anything extra out of the power then cool. In total I will only be adding around .75 of an inch In spacers.

Does it matter where I put the spacers? Would it benifit me more in the front or the rear? I'm adding .5 of an inch in the rear and .2 in the front of the tophat. Is this to much in the rear? Now you have me thinking about going out and getting a .25 of inch spacer in the rear so i can stay away from coil bind.

Will this also help with spring twang? I read your message about the tar for the spring getting to thick in cold weather. I do want to shoot the gun in the winter. I don't really want anything slowing it down.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 11:47 pm Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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Well the gun turned out pretty good. Couldn't use a spacer at all. Created spring bind. So a debur, lube and apex seal is going to have to do. Damn chinese guns. There just is no room in this gun for any type of mod, unless you start changing the design.

Thanks for everyones help.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:56 am Reply with quote
rsterne
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FWIW, I've never seen a springer where you could put in a .75" spacer.... except some of the detuned Canadian guns.... Rolling Eyes

Bob

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:55 am Reply with quote
curbcheck101
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Quote:
FWIW, I've never seen a springer where you could put in a .75" spacer.... except some of the detuned Canadian guns....

Bob


It wasn't one spacer it was going to be a total of three spacers at .25". Either way I can't even put in a .25" spacer. I was just hoping I could get something in there to help with spring torque. A lube is just going to have to do.

I've shot it about ten times now and I hvaen't heard much for spring twang. This gun has picked up some power with new "stock" spring and apex seal. Can't wait to really break in the seal. I just wish I had a cronny.
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Bronze thrust washer reliability? 
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