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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Target Shooting: Casual, Fun and Competition » AirGunHome Shooting Competition Fortnight 105 Goto page Previous  1, 2
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 3:45 pm Reply with quote
jgoodz420
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Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 74
Location: Canada
Lipoly wrote:

Crono'd it @ 515fps, but seems it just can't make a clean punch in paper. Paper is outside in sub freezing temp, so maybe that makes a difference.



Have you tried "cooking" your targets before shooting them? Put your targets in the oven at about 150-200* F for about 5mins........Obviously you have to make sure you don't burn them, paper burns at like 350*F anyway, but they will start to brown......Don't eat them though, they are not as good as they look!!!!Laughing

This dries them out, and makes it way easier for the pellet to cut nice clean holes.........I usually do this for any target I make on my computer printer, the computer ink makes the paper very wet so it rips easily......

Just a thought, hope this helps.......

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:51 pm Reply with quote
BobB
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Joined: 09 Feb 2010
Posts: 18
Location: Northern Midwest, USA
Rifle: Daisy/Avanti 753 Elite
Pellets: Crosman Wadcutters
Iron sights
14 minutes

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:05 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND
Bi-Weekly Shooting Competition No 105 Results




Best entry’s we have had for a long time well done every one.

Al
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:51 am Reply with quote
oddtodd
Silver Status Member
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Joined: 30 Dec 2008
Posts: 2029
Location: Richmond, IN USA
jgoodz420 wrote:
Lipoly wrote:

Crono'd it @ 515fps, but seems it just can't make a clean punch in paper. Paper is outside in sub freezing temp, so maybe that makes a difference.



Have you tried "cooking" your targets before shooting them? Put your targets in the oven at about 150-200* F for about 5mins........Obviously you have to make sure you don't burn them, paper burns at like 350*F anyway, but they will start to brown......Don't eat them though, they are not as good as they look!!!!Laughing

This dries them out, and makes it way easier for the pellet to cut nice clean holes.........I usually do this for any target I make on my computer printer, the computer ink makes the paper very wet so it rips easily......

Just a thought, hope this helps.......


I use a piece of 1/4 hardboard behind my targets. A 2x2 piece at your local lumber yard is only a couple of bucks. I bought a 4x8 for 12 dollars and made 16 target backstops fpr mine. It will usually go all the way thru so you need a proper backstop behind it. You just tape the paper down on all 4 corners so it is nice and flat and start shooting. Mine always makes a nice clean hole whether it is my 2240, 2300, or 2400. Just might want to give it a try.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:20 am Reply with quote
Bean
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Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 127
Location: Bel Air MD
Invest in a cookie sheet (the tray you bake cookies on in an oven) or scavenge a used one from the kitchen. Heavy duty is good.

Also invest in some duct seal (found locally in the electrical section at the hardware store).

Fill cookie sheet with duct seal. Paper sticks to it nicely (I use a padded wallpaper roller to get good and uniform adhesion. The flatter the duct seal the more uniform adhesion = the cleanest holes in the paper. And if you clean your pellets out of the duct seal routinely and work the surface smooth again, you can do this forever. No backers to buy or replace, no fuss over paper, but cleaning and smoothing the duct seal can be a pain.

I have many of these. The one I use for Pistol and light duty rifles is big enough to hand 2 full size targets. The ones I use for higher powered rifles are deeper baking pans, lined with 2 layers of sheet metal and a full 1.5 - 2 inches of duct seal. ((The edgun blows through 2 inches of ductseal - the heavy pan and sheet metal liner adds enough to stop the pellet without denting but this trap - I NEVER CLEAN, I just smash the ductseal flat with a rubber mallet every 100 shots or so to close up the holes.

Let me know if you want pics.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:39 pm Reply with quote
jgoodz420
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Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 74
Location: Canada
Bean wrote:
Invest in a cookie sheet (the tray you bake cookies on in an oven) or scavenge a used one from the kitchen. Heavy duty is good.

Also invest in some duct seal (found locally in the electrical section at the hardware store).

Fill cookie sheet with duct seal. Paper sticks to it nicely (I use a padded wallpaper roller to get good and uniform adhesion. The flatter the duct seal the more uniform adhesion = the cleanest holes in the paper. And if you clean your pellets out of the duct seal routinely and work the surface smooth again, you can do this forever. No backers to buy or replace, no fuss over paper, but cleaning and smoothing the duct seal can be a pain.

I have many of these. The one I use for Pistol and light duty rifles is big enough to hand 2 full size targets. The ones I use for higher powered rifles are deeper baking pans, lined with 2 layers of sheet metal and a full 1.5 - 2 inches of duct seal. ((The edgun blows through 2 inches of ductseal - the heavy pan and sheet metal liner adds enough to stop the pellet without denting but this trap - I NEVER CLEAN, I just smash the ductseal flat with a rubber mallet every 100 shots or so to close up the holes.

Let me know if you want pics.


Yeah this is very true, duct seal works great........I have about a 12"x12"x1" piece of duct seal pressed and screwed onto a piece of 2x12 behind where my target s hang. Stops rebounds from coming back, but doesn't do much for holes, maybe I will try out your cookie sheet theory.........

Cheers,
-Joel.G

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AF Condor .25/.22
Custom Crosman 1377
Crosman Quest 1000
Crosman Pumpmaster LE #1178 of 5000
Daisy Powerline 2003
Daisy Red Ryder 25th. Anni. LE #335 of 1500
Vostok Model 38 .177
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:14 pm Reply with quote
donec
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Joined: 19 Dec 2009
Posts: 836
Location: central Texas Pflugerville area
Would modeling clay work like the duct seal? I have a block of clay that I picked up at a garage sale for $1.00 that is about 6" square and 8" tall.


Last edited by donec on Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:59 pm Reply with quote
Bean
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Joined: 23 Sep 2008
Posts: 127
Location: Bel Air MD
donec wrote:
Would modeling clay work like the duct seal? I have a block of clay that I picked up at a garage sale for $1.00 that is about 6" square and 8' tall.


No. It will slow the pellet a bit, an inch may stop light pellets from low powered pistols (I'm thinking 300 fps or so). Duct Seal is much firmer and will not dry out. It's made to fill gaps in exterior and concrete/brick walls after drilling for wiring etc.

The clay will work to slow the impact but not like duct seal... I shoot my CO2 pistols and my 1377, 1322, and IZH 46M into a trap that's one half inch deep and the pellets usually stop with the skirts sticking out a bit. The CO2 rifles will generally bury a pellet but it's rare to have one hit the metal liner (if my trap is clean).

My EDgun shooting .22 18.1gr JSB's at 870fps will blow through an inch and a half of duct seal and splat against the metal liner so there are limits. Gotta build the trap for the intended purpose. ((The one I use with the high powered stuff DOES NOT GET CLEANED, I just smash the duct seal from time to time to fill in the holes. It's getting very heavy!! ))
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:18 pm Reply with quote
donec
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Posts: 836
Location: central Texas Pflugerville area
Thanks Bean.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 5:42 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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Joined: 01 Mar 2007
Posts: 4139
Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND
I know this is off topic but have a look at this for a target box. It uses old pices of carpet stacked on top of each other, and clamped together. A 4" wide piece of carpet clamped in this way will stop any pellet and last for ten's of thousands of shots.

Absolutly no rebound or sound.

http://airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=234&highlight=silent

Al

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