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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Pistols » Crosman 2240 .177 ? Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:40 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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Managed to get a shot string finished today, I was looking for 500fps average and got 506 with the power adjuster turned right down so pleased with that, turned right up I was getting 565 so plenty in reserve.

One thing I’m not sure about is the string started in the 480s crept up to the low 500s then dropped back towards the end, why it started low I’m not sure, maybe if rsterne is about can give me some idea ? The sweet spot seems to be around 500fps with most of the shots within 20 fps of each other, and I did get 77 usable shots out of one cartridge.


Slavia Cheers for the idea for cutting the grips should make it a lot easier, any idea how you do diamond hatching that looks neat and if so what tool do I need? One other thing I was going to ask you a while back you posted a photo of a modded trigger for a 22xx, well the small icon photo is still there but no link to the full size photo, do you still have a copy you can post.

Mar nice idea but the cost of shipping would be more than a new one over there.



Al

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 12:23 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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The shape of that shot string would suggest to me that as the CO2 cools and the pressure drops the velocity increases (the opposite of CO2s usual performance).... That would indicate that the hammer strike is too light.... Think of it like the bell-curve in a PCP.... Even the spike in velocity at the end (before the final drop) would indicate the same thing.... as the pressure declines (as the last of the liquid CO2 is evaporating) the velocity goes up until it really starts to drop when the cartridge is nearly empty (ie no liquid left).... Rolling Eyes

If you do another shot string with the hammer at maximum, I'm betting it will be "normal" for CO2.... initially high, dropping as the gun cools, then a plateau, then a final plunge.... If that is the case, then it's just a matter of finding a setting in between where the string is virtually flat from the beginning to the final plunge.... Cool

When I am testing CO2 guns I actually count out 30 seconds between shots to remove the cooling variable as much as possible from the results.... You will still get the initial cooling, but it stabilizes better.... The peak in the middle of your shot string may have been nothing more than you firing more rapidly during that section.... Once you find the ideal hammer setting, the rate of fire will hardly effect the velocity at all.... What will happen is that the faster you fire (or the lower the ambient temperature), the fewer shots you will get.... Shocked

If when you find the balance point for the hammer spring setting you are over your 6 FPE limit.... then make up a smaller transfer port.... or use one of Crosman's detuning tricks and put a very thin washer under the seal with a smaller hole in it.... You may have to tweak the hammer setting a bit to get it perfect again.... Once on the plateau, your shots are actually within about a 15 fps range, so that shows a lot of promise right there.... The optimum setting may also change slightly with pellet weight, I don't know.... Wink

Bob

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 1:27 pm Reply with quote
Alstone
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Cheers Bob for the pointers on Co2 pressures I can go to 560 fps with a 7.2 grain which leaves me with a decent margin for safety, so I do have a bit to play with. Cool

The temperature was 60*F and I just estimated the dwell between shots so that could account for the erratic figures, also I turned the power down to maximise the shot count, I’ll be a bit more careful for the next string and turn the power up to maximum, which should be the same as when new, as for the shot count that is not important a but a stabilised fps would be nice. Smile

Al

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 2:12 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
One other thing I was going to ask you a while back you posted a photo of a modded trigger for a 22xx, well the small icon photo is still there but no link to the full size photo, do you still have a copy you can post.

My approach was like the Gamo/Crosman/B18-19 trigger - second stage is sear engagement, first stage is slop:


My design is too complicated, and leaves the sear poised on the brink. If I were to do it today I would explore something like this (go down to custom triggers/Crosman):
https://www.airgunsofarizona.com/


Quote:
any idea how you do diamond hatching that looks neat

To do the diamond hatching (checkering) you need checkering files and some practice:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6799/Product/PREMIER_CHECKERING_SET
I have neither the files nor the skill, so I go with stippling - which I can do with what I have available:


That little ball and spring for the safety are much easier to install if you drop them into an assembled grip frame. I thought, Al wants the information; I'll just pull off the side plate and nothing will happen. The next time I advise someone on this forum to be careful, I'm sure you all will be around to remind of my folly. I believe I now hold the world's record for the most (five) consecutive losses and kitchen floor retrievals. With eyes like that you would think I could shoot better than I do.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:26 pm Reply with quote
Alstone
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Thanks Slavia, first sorry for making you loose the ball out of the safety, also the first thing I did when separating the trigger unit from the action, only I didn’t know I had lost anything until I put it back together and wondered why the safety was wobbling around.

The first trigger unit seems complicated and I’m not sure how the second stage works, so I’ll leave that alone.

The second custom sear looks promising I may make one and see how it goes.

As for checkering, I have seen tools advertised in the State's but taken no interest until now, whatever you buy from Brownells cost $35.00 for shipping, as far as I can make out is the they are not available over here.

So it lucks like I’ll have to have a go at making a double cutter for diamond checkering.

I got this 2240 for something to do over the winter but the way it’s going it’ll be two winters.

This is where I am at the moment, I drilled out the pivot hole in the trigger to 1/4" and fitted a bush the correct width, this stopped it wobbling also fitted a trigger shoe and spring guide, this makes the whole lot smoother.



Al

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:55 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Nice job on the safety cross-bolt, too.

I didn't go as far as 1/4", but I did bore out the pivot points to slightly oversized. I made the replacement pins from the smooth shaft of the same drill that made the holes.

Now is the time for the overtravel limiter:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:33 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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Slavia wrote:
Nice job on the safety cross-bolt, too.

I didn't go as far as 1/4", but I did bore out the pivot points to slightly oversized. I made the replacement pins from the smooth shaft of the same drill that made the holes.

Now is the time for the overtravel limiter:


Job for today. Mr. Green

Al

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:28 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
I got this 2240 for something to do over the winter but the way it’s going it’ll be two winters.

I'll tell you what - when you finish the 2240 I'll just be finishing the Mendoza. We can find some range that accepts curmudgeons in wheelchairs and make a day of it.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:17 pm Reply with quote
Alstone
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Slavia wrote:
Quote:
I got this 2240 for something to do over the winter but the way it’s going it’ll be two winters.

I'll tell you what - when you finish the 2240 I'll just be finishing the Mendoza. We can find some range that accepts curmudgeons in wheelchairs and make a day of it.



Good idea we can get nurse Gladys Emmanuel to look after us, we might need somewhere to keep the Co2 warm. Mr. Green

Al

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:24 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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Quote:
Now is the time for the overtravel limiter:

I use a piece of 7/32" OD K&S brass tubing inside the spring cut to length (1.070" IIRC, make length so the sear just releases).... It just fits over the spring seat in the bottom of the frame (sometimes you have to touch it up with a file to have it sit down and square).... You could just make the nylon saddle/spring guide in yours longer.... Wink

Bob

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:44 pm Reply with quote
Alstone
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To late Bob I have allready fitted an adjusting screw. I did see a write up on your idea but couldn't find it at the time. But like you say extending the nylon saddle would have done the job anyway Rolling Eyes

Had another play with the crony trying to improve the shot string, The temperature was low at 50*F so using 7.2 grain .177 Hobbys I shot 5 Co2 cartridges playing around with the power adjuster as recommended by you until I got a decent setting also 30 seconds between shots, I was pleased with this one. Smile




Put the trigger stop on today Slavia, it does make a difference. Thumb Up!



Al


Last edited by Alstone on Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:07 pm; edited 1 time in total

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:49 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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How close are your tolerances between the barrel and the brass breech? I've read about guys dispensing with the barrel band when they have metal breeches (free floated).

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:10 pm Reply with quote
Alstone
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Slavia wrote:
How close are your tolerances between the barrel and the brass breech? I've read about guys dispensing with the barrel band when they have metal breeches (free floated).


It's a quite good push fit, but the problem is that the only thing holding the front of the breach, barrel, and silencer plus a scope on top is a very small screw under the bolt. Personally I am not convinced by using a floating barrel especially on a pistol, I do believe that you get a harmonics build up on some designs where as with a barrel band it deadens them, plus what is the point of floating a Crosman barrel on a Crosman pistol, maybe with a Walther barrel would make sense. Question

Anyway I shake more than any floating barrel can compensate for, my Rohm barrel is floating and to be honest the crosman shoots as well as it, at least in my hands. Laughing

One other thing about pistols with floating barrels is they all look ugly. Mr. Green

Just my opinion. Laughing

PS: I just had a thought I used to make guns with twin floating barrels, 4.5" navel turrets. Now they were accurate.

Al

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:34 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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Excellent string, Al.... It will be interesting to see what results you get at different temperatures.... You will definitely get more shots at higher temps.... I tuned for the flattest string at 60*F.... At 46*F the velocity tailed off just slightly towards the end of the string.... and at 75*F it had a slight increase at the end (from a ~10 fps lower midrange plateau)....

When you consider all the shots between 46*F and 75* F were within about a 35 fps range.... whereas a stock gun had over 100 fps variation over that same temperature range (and less than half the shots).... tuning for the "self-regulating" range made a HUGE difference.... Wink

When you consider that the pressure of CO2 at 40*F is only about 600 psi while at 75*F it is about 900 psi.... it's pretty cool to be able to accomplish this.... Cool

Bob

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:56 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
I just had a thought I used to make guns with twin floating barrels, 4.5" navel turrets.


Navel turrets? We had a TV show once about a bionic woman, but nothing like that. Do English women come with standard thread sizes?

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