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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing » Adjustable Butt Plate Goto page 1, 2  Next    View previous topic :: View next topic  Adjustable Butt Plate   Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 10:28 am Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND After Joe’s post last week with his new breach and commenting on the need for a new Butt Plate, I dug out my own drawings for a better butt support for bench shooting and disappeared to the workshop for the weekend. I have to work without interruption and fast, otherwise I get fed up. So I was halfway through before I realised I hadn’t taken any photos, but not to much of a problem. The majority of the butt is made from 3mm aluminium angle with the base plate from a 125mm x 40mm x 12mm Aluminium plate, there is no machining at all the only machine required is a drill press also a set of good files, saw and plenty of beer. The only difficult part is the rubber blocks set in the various shoulder plates, to fit these you need to drill a hole the size of the rubber you intend to use, ( I used 5mm dia solid ) cut the length a bit longer than you require and Super glue them in place, I use an activator to speed up the setting process. When set I wrap a piece of 1mm aluminium around the plate in two places, then sand down to these stops to get all the blocks the same size, remove the stops and you will have a professional finished shoulder pad. The New Butt plate is inter changeable with the standard one, it is fitted with quick release pins which are opened by a button on the bottom of the butt, so I can use the new adjustable butt plate for bench shooting and the standard one for hunting and F/T. PS: I should add that all the clamping bolts screw into holes fitted with Heli-Coil inserts for strength. There are 10 image's below. Finished Adjustable Butt Plate Middle Pad Two Pieces of Angle With Packing Piece Riveted and Polished Rubber Inserts ready for Sanding Sanding Super Glue and Activator Butt Connection Diffrent Butts Finished Unit Ready to Go! 10 Hours Work Later. Al _________________   Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:33 am Brutuz Senior Member Joined: 12 Jan 2009 Posts: 504 Looks like a pro-job to me: congrats _________________ Crosman [1300 1322 1377 1377c 1389 2289G Mark II SSP250 2300KT 2400KT ] Sheridan [HB20] Haenel [III 284] SMK [XS78 Deluxish] My vids on Youtube   Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:54 pm broommaster2000 Moderator Joined: 10 Mar 2007 Posts: 5714 Location: City of Groningen, Groningen, The Netherlands Can I BUY those skills? _________________ BIG GAP   Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:05 pm Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA From another thread, you mentioned wanting the ability to keep the butt in place while reloading at the bench. This implies supporting the gun slightly ahead of the C.G. and letting the butt rest on the top of the shoulder: http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=3811 Since the top and bottom pieces are symmetrical, they could be reversed to have the butt rest under your arm for offhand shooting (supporting the forearm slightly behind the C.G.). Did you freehand the engine turning, or did you have some kind of edge guide/fixture to handle the curved surface? _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 2:58 pm Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND Slavia wrote: From another thread, you mentioned wanting the ability to keep the butt in place while reloading at the bench. This implies supporting the gun slightly ahead of the C.G. and letting the butt rest on the top of the shoulder: http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=3811 Since the top and bottom pieces are symmetrical, they could be reversed to have the butt rest under your arm for offhand shooting (supporting the forearm slightly behind the C.G.). Did you freehand the engine turning, or did you have some kind of edge guide/fixture to handle the curved surface? 1. Regarding keeping the gun supported while reloading, I tried taping a piece of wood to the butt for this purpose , but found that it needed to be to long and interfered with shouldering the gun, also something I hadn’t thought of was that you need to de-shoulder the gun to cock it, so I went for a standard form of adjustable butt, and it works very well. 2. I’ll have to have a think about reversing the butt. 3. For the engine turning I used a 90 deg face plate bolted to the drill press table with the emery tube just clearing the face plate, and rotated and pushed the base plate on to the emery tube by hand, as per photo. Al _________________   Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:21 pm Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA Quote: I’ll have to have a think about reversing the butt Simply an observation that your design provides that option. Quote: For the engine turning I used a 90 deg face plate bolted to the drill press table with the emery tube just clearing the face plate, and rotated and pushed the base plate on to the emery tube by hand, as per photo. So an edge guide fixed for each row, eyeball the overlap, and conforming to the curve is just a matter of how deep you plunge the quill before making contact - right? How fine did you polish it before turning, and did you use any abrasive paste in addition to the spinning emery? _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 3:49 pm Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND For this job Slavia I left the quill locked and just pushed the work on to it, after one row I moved the angle plate back half a row and started the next run, so that the emery tube was 50% offset. this was just for this job normally I leave the work flat on the drill table and use the quill. As for the finish I polished the aluminium to a high shine then use the emery tube without polish, but first I bed it in on a piece of scrap. I have in the past used metal polish and scouring powder as the medium and leather in the tube. The butt plate was done rather quickly and I should have spent a bit more time on it, now I know it works I will probably strip it down and improve the finish, anodizing would be nice but I can't be bothered for one piece, and the nearest commercial one is 80 miles away. Al _________________   Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:45 am Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA Anodizing would fit with the overall color scheme of the rifle: On the other hand, finished brite it would match the trigger, and would be more in keeping with the high-tech look of the design. The blued screws and black rubber buttons give enough contrast so it's not just a blob of shiny metal. I think you could go either way and it would be great. _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:46 am Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND Slavia wrote: Anodizing would fit with the overall color scheme of the rifle: On the other hand, finished brite it would match the trigger, and would be more in keeping with the high-tech look of the design. The blued screws and black rubber buttons give enough contrast so it's not just a blob of shiny metal. I think you could go either way and it would be great. Your mock up of a black butt plate looks very mean also smart, so smart in fact that I rang my local anodizing specialist for a quote, and evidently it not possible in its present state, the large and medium shoulder plates are riveted together and these would have to be separated before they would do the job, the reason is that when they etch the surface prior to anodizing, the etching acid can get trapped between the faces and ruin the finish. This would not be to much of a problem but I asked for a high quality black finish, and was told that this is the most expensive option, the best quality black dye is the more expensive than any other colour. So I will have to stick with Shiny for now, I do have a short aluminium silencer for it so this would balance the effect quite nicely. Al _________________   Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:40 pm Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA To go on my Mendoza project. Setscrews in wood anchors will fix the rods within the wooden butt, and there will be a similar face plate to hide the end grain. Maybe not up to Alstone's standards of finish, but good enough. It's Joe's turn. _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:45 pm Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND That’s a very slick piece of kit slavia, I like the idea of ( I assume ) a tee slot for adjustment. Did you fabricate it from separate parts or is it one machined lump? The engine turning is top notch, Ill have to take more care with mine in future, I haven’t had time to try your idea of using an “armpit support” yet as all shooting is suspended at the moment, because my pond has got a split in the liner and I am having to change it, so it has priority at the moment according to the wife. I think Joe’s got an excuse at the moment, he was last seem galloping down the road with his mini miller strapped on his back, being chased by hells inferno. Sorry Joe. nice to know you out run it. Al _________________   Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:51 pm Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA Quote: The engine turning is top notch Thanks for the compliment; I got all the information I needed from you, Master Yoda. Surface prep was down to 600 grit emery paper under running water. The tool was 100 grit abrasive cloth ("shop roll") rolled to fit tightly in a 5/16" socket. I also trimmed it to stick out of the socket only about 1/16" to prevent mushrooming. The surface was covered with automotive paint rubbing compound, and the tool was held for about four seconds with very light pressure. Quote: Did you fabricate it from separate parts or is it one machined lump? The "T-rail" was purchased as surplus from a place where I once worked. It was used as conveyor side rails. (This same stuff became the trigger shoe for my G1, the bubble level fixture for my Marksman 2004, and the bipod for the 2004). A similar product is available as "T-track": http://www.dewas.ca/ttrack.htm The rods that will extend into the wood stock are simply bolts with the heads lopped off. The flat plate is from a pancake griddle, and the butt hook is a bicycle hand brake lever: I didn't want to rely on soft aluminum threads, so I opted for threaded steel inserts. Instead of helicoils, I turned down "T" nuts. For this I used a headless screw (as a mandrel) in the portable drill, and ground them down with a Dremel and abrasive cutoff wheel. They fit snugly in the rubber of the (original) buttpad. For the butthook attachment I tapered the head so it would wedge into the counterbore, and pressed "splines" into the edge of the head with the jaws of a vice grip. I jacked it into place with screw pressure and red Loctite: _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:05 am Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND Certainly a bit of ingenuity there slavia and it looks great, you wouldn’t believe it was made out of a bit of a conveyer, an old frying pan and The Pièce de résistance as got to be the brake handle, lateral thinking at it best. Al _________________   Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:20 am Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA An aside for people contemplating mounting metal on wood: I've replaced all the wood screws on my guns with machine screws and anchors. Wood just doesn't stand up to repeated disassembly - like when you're "try-fitting" a part in progress. Helicoils are one way. If you go with an anchor, try to find the kind with hex key (allen wrench) inserts. The little ears on the brass ones break off with screwdriver pressure, especially with 6-32 or 8-32. If brass is all you have available, insert a screw with nut and turn them in with a wrench: _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:59 pm yourdaddyjoe Supporting Member Joined: 26 May 2008 Posts: 4027 Location: Tatorville, USA Gee... I need to check in more often... Awesome job boys... I need to get my escrament together and get my adjustable butt plate made... Been tossed a few curves over the last month... Sick lathe to boot.... All translates too.... I ain't been having no fun in the shop.... One of the biggest headaches is being solved so we are not moving.... The final part to get the lathe up and running again will be in tomorrow night... After blowing out 2 control boards on my mini... I decided it's time to upgrade to a 350w motor and control board... Bottom line... every electrical part is being replaced and a new tail stock... I have my eye on a second lathe for the shop. Two people can't be on the same lathe at the same time... When my helper is here... I end up sitting on my arse way too much... I am bringing in a 10"x22" with a 1" Spindle bore so I can start chambering Bull Barrels and do larger pieces... This lathe even comes with a independant 4 jaw chuck and a face plate... wooo hooo.... For less $$$ than I have in upgrades on the mini... Okay... enough thread jacking..... Love it Al! Yes... green with envy... _________________ Say "NO" to BB Gun Wars... Quid Pro Quo Rule: An eye for an eye... www.HPASports.com www.Facebook.com/hpasports Adjustable Butt Plate     Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum All times are GMT - 5 Hours   Page 1 of 2   Goto page 1, 2  Next All Posts1 Day7 Days2 Weeks1 Month3 Months6 Months1 Year Oldest FirstNewest First  Select a forum Main Forums----------------AirGunHome Q&AGeneral Air Gun Questions and TopicsPicture GalleryTarget Shooting: Casual, Fun and CompetitionHunting, Pest Control, Varminting People/Events/Airgun Issue Discussion----------------Introduce YourselfThe BS TopicClubs/Events/Regional/Political Airgun Issues Maintenance, Modification and Reviews----------------RiflesPistolsAntique, Collector and Novelty AirgunsBB GunsPellets/AmmoOpticsAccessoriesAirgun Smithing Buy, Sell or Trade Forums----------------For SaleWant to Buy   Note: If you are seeing "Please enter your username and password to log in." 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