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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:35 pm |
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| firemandivi |
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I have a wood stock and am wondering what to put on it and roughly how often to keep it in good shape.
I've seen people say to use mineral oil, WD40, or the same lube used for the spring. Any other suggestions, what works for you and why? |
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:36 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Murphy's Oil Soap works good for cleaning the wood surface. I do that whenever I put the gun away. Paste wax is good - I use that about twice a year. Use a soft toothbrush to get any wax residue out of checkering or embossed designs. |
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:38 pm |
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| firemandivi |
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| Thanks, I've had my airgun for about 2-3 weeks and it is already developing rust neat the butt end of the barrel, so I used some WD40 to clean it up and remove the rust. It couldn't remove all of it will try again this weekend, the ar is only 2-3 wks old WTF. When I'm not shooting the ar which only has 60-70 shots through it, its stored in a plano gun case. Also the barrel is not lined up with the stock, every time I cock it the swing arm rubs against the stock and scratches up the swing arm and is slowing tearing away the stock. I could just sand the stock down in spots but come on the ar is brand new. Is this to be expected by buying a Chinese airgun or is this common place for all airguns? I'm tempted to return it. |
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:30 pm |
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| Slavia |
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You should take the gun out of the case and store it somewhere that's dry and dust free. That foam padding will take any little bit of moisture (mist, fog, rain, whatever) and hold it right next to the gun. The plastic case doesn't breathe, so the foam doesn't dry out. Keep rubbing; you'll get it.
Can you post a photo of where the stock rubs when cocking? |
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Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 10:12 pm |
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| firemandivi |
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I assume its normal for a gun to start rusting in only 2-3 weeks? From now on I'll store the gun in the house (don't know where, wife isn't too happy with my airgun purchase ) and only put it in the case while I'm transporting it or its in my car which is only 10 hours a day. Is there anything you can use to take the moisture out of the foam/case? What if I drill some small holes in the case to allow for air to get in there, is that a problem or will it not get enough air in to make a difference?
Thanks for the input, I'll post pictures of where its rubbing tomorrow. |
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:59 am |
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| Alstone |
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There are many types of stock treatment on the market and I'm sure they are all good, but I shoot outside in all weathers usually wet and being inherently lazy when I come home I wipe the gun down to take all the surface water off, then blast it all over with WD40 give it a good soaking then wipe the surplus off, I have had my TX for two and a half years now and shot over 20,000 pellets through it, and there isn’t a spot of rust anywhere and the stock looks great so something must be working ok.
It goes without saying that if the gun is dripping wet then I do seperate the action from the stock to get all the water out.
Al |
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 6:54 am |
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| firemandivi |
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Thanks for the WD40 idea, I will try it on the stock tonight.
Here are some pics of where the swing arm is rubbing on the stock.
As you can see in the photos, its rubbing on the left side only, there is plenty of clearance on the right side. I would think this could easily be solved by just sanding down the stock where its meeting the swing arm or is this a no no? |
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 7:47 am |
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| broommaster2000 |
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:51 am |
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| firemandivi |
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| Where would you put the spacer so it wouldn't rub and what kind of spacer? |
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:08 am |
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| rsterne |
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I had a Quest (also Chinese)that had the same issue, the breech block was rubbing on the stock on one side.... I sanded down the stock inside the slot until it cleared by about 1/32", restained it and waterproofed it with a bit of danish oil.... never had a spot of bother after that.... If you leave it too long, you will wear off the bluing off the breech block....
Bob |
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:57 am |
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| firemandivi |
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| Thanks, I kind of figured sanding would be the easiest way to fix it. What is danish oil? The inside is actually kind of ruff already, if I sand just one spot should I sand the whole thing and but a water proof varnish on the inside only, I would think this would give the best protection. I made a fish tank stand for my 90 gallon tank and covered everything in a marine grade varnish and it holds up really well. |
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Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:46 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Quote: |
| What is danish oil? |
Danish oil, tung oil, boiled linseed oil, and Tru Oil are all products that penetrate into the wood as a liquid and then polymerize (meaning the molecules react with oxygen to form larger "mega-molecules"). They are good at sealing the wood against changes in humidity, and therefore promote dimensional stability.
Varnishes have solids suspended/dissolved in a vehicle/solvent. They don't cure so much as dry - the vehicle/solvent evaporates, leaving the solids behind. They build up gloss and provide mechanical protection to the wood surface.
Since your application is not highly visible, I would sand, stain, and oil it.
Cold blueing is available if the wear on the breech block is unsightly. |
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Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 7:26 am |
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| firemandivi |
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Thanks for the help guys.
I sanded it down last night, there's now enough space that I can slide a business card between the swing arm and the stock. While I was sanding I noticed that where the spring chamber and everything sits on the stock was roughly cut and never sanded, so I spent some extra time and sanded that out so everything will fit together smoother. I'm guessing this will only make the gun better giving it a better fit and all. Time will tell. Tonight I will stain it and put tung oil or something like it on it. Will mineral oil work?
On a side note, I never thought it would be so easy to take an airgun apart but it sure was. Also when everyone kept saying to use locktite on the bolts holding the gun together I thought they were crazy because you could never get it apart, that was before I found out that locktite makes a blue one that is removable Hooray for the Blue Locktite |
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_________________ .22 Super Streak |
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Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 8:12 am |
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| Slavia |
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Blue Loctite is your friend.
Mineral oil doesn't turn solid. Unless your stock has diaper rash, go for the tung (or similar) oil. |
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_________________
¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego! |
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:39 pm |
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| firemandivi |
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almost 3 days and that Danish oil still hasn't fully dried yet. This is taking forever. Of course today I see squirrels eating my corn and there is nothing I can do Revenge will be mine though  |
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