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333mmm · New Member

Is there any consensus on the right amount of tar to apply to a mainspring? How much does the amount affect velocity? If tar decreases velocity then the right amount would depend on how much power a person would be willing to give up for smoothness and greater accuracy. Is it true that more powerful mainsprings require more tar to dampen vibration than weaker springs? Maccari recommends a light coating of tar only on the mainspring O.D. Is that true for every mainspring in every gun? I was thinking of doing a little experiment by applying measured amounts of tar, reassembling, and testing the velocity and accuracy for each application, but if there's a consensus out there on the right amount of tar based on results from testing then I can avoid testing myself although the testing would be interesting. Also, some recommend velocity tar for the mainspring instead of heavy tar? Which is better? Maccari does not sell the velocity tar anymore I believe. Is there another source? Thanks for any replies.

Alstone · Moderator & Site Supporter

Welcome to AirGunHome 333mmm.
I use Maccari tar on my springers and just put a light covering on the outside, and a wipe over of moly on the inside and find that the output stays pretty stable, but on a B4-2 which is a bit sloppy on the internals I have to put more tar on to stop the twang, the problem is that the spring will find it's own level of tar and throw off the surplus, so after a while the twang comes back.

So I think it depends on the quality of the gun.

Al

super6 · Member

I wear nitrile gloves as it's very messy. I just use one finger and dab it on the exterior of the spring in the central area not the parts in the piston and over the rear spring guide. It is to dampen the spring harmonics, not act as a lube.

Amigo · Veteran Member

Hey SS, better tar application results may be obtained by applying a skin coat full length rather than just the middle third.

I designate one spring end as the piston end and apply the lube stroking toward that piston end.

This technique works for me, and it just might work for you also.

Amigo

Ed Krzynowek · Member

Amigo · Veteran Member

3M:

Welcome to AirGunHome Exclamation

I think this is the best airgun forum you will find.

I've found JM's tar advise of a light coat to the OD apt, regardless of spring size or power. Ed Krzynowek's pizza sauce description is probably the best yet. As Alstone points out, the excess will eventually be thrown off.

Experimentation is one of the things that keeps both life and airgunning interesting, so don't let an old "stick-in-the-mud" like me discourage you.

Best Regards to a New Member Exclamation

Amigo

xtratoy · New Member

Has anyone ever tried a light coating of rubberized undercoating on the spring? I was thinking of putting a wooden dowel inside the spring to keep it off the tophat and rear spring guide area and lightly spraying the OD of spring. Once dry it should never fling off and would be a great vibration damper. Maybe this has been tried and didn't work but I haven't seen it mentioned.

xtratoy · New Member

Has anyone ever tried a light coating of rubberized undercoating on the spring? I was thinking of putting a wooden dowel inside the spring to keep it off the tophat and rear spring guide area and lightly spraying the OD of spring. Once dry it should never fling off and would be a great vibration damper. Maybe this has been tried and didn't work but I haven't seen it mentioned.

kanyon · Silver Status Member

super6 · Member

Amigo:
my approach has worked fine in the guns I've tuned. I have zero twang. I'm a firm believer in less is best, whether it's my sweet little BSA Lightning XL or my Walther Hatsan Turkish Talon cannon.

There is no one way to do a tune. I have a crazy friend who uses nothing but lithium in the powerplant and in the trigger assembly. Guess what? After countless thousands of pellets and a number of years, all his guns perform flawlessly. Personally, I prefer lithium in my vehicles.

Whatever floats your boat.

xtratoy · New Member

Kanyon, The wooden dowel was to prevent undercoating from going where it wasn't wanted (where the spring rides on the guides) the dowel would then be removed and the gun assembled as usual. Gamo Shadow .177 I haven't tried it yet, but when/if I do I will report back.

Slavia · Moderator

xtratoy · New Member

Earlier today I did just that. I sprayed a light coating on a piece of 1/16" thick by 7/16" wide piece of steel with a smooth finish and am letting it dry until tomorrow. Then I plan on repeatedly bending and flexing it to see if it cracks or chips off. Then I will then test how well it adheres to the metal by trying to scrape it off. Will keep you all informed. I would try to keep the rubber off the ID and OD of spring and just have it where the spring would touch between the coils if fully compressed. I have a JM E3650 spring on order and it has a shorter fully collasped length than the stock spring so the rubber shouldn't be causing any binding problems. I hope. And it shouldn't be anywhere where it will scrape anything causing it to gum up the works inside the gun.

xtratoy · New Member

its taking longer to dry ( set up) because of the 30 degree temps here. Its still a bit gummy when I scrape on it. I will move it to a warmer location and recheck tomorrow.