 |  | | | |  | |  |  | Crosman G1 Trigger Reality Check |  | |  |  | |
 Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:18 am |
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| Slavia |
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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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I took the trigger apart today, just to see what I can do to make it better. A GRT III trigger would be a $35.00 "drop-in" mod, but then that wouldn't be any fun, would it? I guess my three goals would be 1. Make it smoother, 2. Make it lighter (without being unsafe), and 3. Make it break nearer to vertical (so my finger isn't pulling upwards because it releases late in the trigger's arc).
I find it difficult to peer inside that little metal enclosure to see how the parts interact, so I scanned them. This allows me to rotate the parts on the computer.
For those of you with experience with this kind of trigger, let me see if I have this right (I believe this design is used on Crosman break barrels, Gamo's, and some other Chinese guns):
1. The adjustment screw bears against the secondary sear, and only sets sear engagement. So what Crosman calls a two stage trigger is really a hair trigger with lots of slop to get there. The first "stage" really does nothing except bring the trigger into contact with the secondary sear.
2. Since the primary and secondary sears both have their own springs, the trigger spring is just a "return" spring and could be made lighter.
Am I on the right track?
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| Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 12:49 am |
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| AirGunEric |
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| Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:08 am |
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| Slavia |
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| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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| Thanks, Eric. I'm chaperoning the county's 4H kids to the State Fair next week - I'll take along a printout of this stuff and a sketch pad to keep me busy in between check-in visits. |
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| Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:09 am |
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| Slavia |
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| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
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| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
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A couple more things I found on the same theme. The insert is for sale by "Rich From Mich," and the metal strap is from "Steve In NC" (although I found it on a Mexican forum).
It appears that all these solutions use the tip of the adjusting screw to provide first stage contact, and the secondary sear spring provides trigger return through that contact.
Still, the stage two pin/secondary sear/primary sear geometry is unchanged, so it's still going to break way back in the trigger's arc, back where the trigger is starting to swing upward. I'm thinking a roller sleeve around the stage two pin might make that happen earlier in the arc.
So I guess while my 4H kids are throwing up on the rides at the fair, I'll be cogitating on making a safe, perfect trigger.
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