 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | Militec 1 and militec grease |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Fri May 30, 2008 4:26 pm |
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| craigfperry |
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Has anyone used this to condition the internal metal parts of an airgun?
It is supposed to bond with the metal and provide lubrication.
http://www.militec-1.com/ |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 12:54 am |
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| AirGunEric |
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| If you look at it- it only works the way it was designed (attaching to metal) via heat- the heat generated in normal firearms, not airguns. |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 7:16 am |
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| cw |
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I think that you would fare much better using
airgun specific lubricants.
CW |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 8:11 am |
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| craigfperry |
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| AirGunEric wrote: |
| If you look at it- it only works the way it was designed (attaching to metal) via heat- the heat generated in normal firearms, not airguns. |
the parts would need to go in the oven |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 8:43 am |
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| AirGunEric |
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Possibly that would work- but cw has a point- there are plenty of lubes being used successfully in airguns (springers, most specifically)- dry moly's, engine oil-based concoctions, moly-powder in a suspension-type lubricants- many of which work very well.
The Militec product seems designed for application with more a metal-to-metal contact situation and where contaminants enter the situation- i.e. sand.
I don't think I've heard of too many modern airguns with alot of metal-to-metal contact (older Webleys had metal rings as seals around the piston- but everything in the market these days has soft seals, not metal) or being used in a constant, contaminant-ridden environment like the Iraqi desert. It might work very well, but it may also be overkill and its main advantages defeated by it being used in an airgun, not a regular firearm.
If you like, try some and see what happens- but perhaps trials would best be done on a cheaper gun in case it gums things up or disintegrates synthetic seals/o-rings. |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 9:17 am |
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| craigfperry |
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airguneric and cw,
you do bring up some good points.
im just all hopped up on the impregnated lubrication thing
once i have a full understanding of the properties of airgun lubes
compaired to how militec works then i may or may not try it
all im saying is if it impregnates lubrication into the metal
how can it be a bad thing?
unless it eats seals. |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 3:14 pm |
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| cw |
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I usually burnish moly-graphite into surfaces. such as
compression chambers, and then completely wipe all
traces off. I have read that once adhered to a metal
surface, moly has to be mechanically (machined) removed.
CW |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 3:31 pm |
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| craigfperry |
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cw
can you expand on that a little
your saying you polish the metal with the grease graphite mixture
and that is enough to basicaly impregnate it into the metal
or does it hang out on the surface of the metal. |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 3:39 pm |
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| 23ib0d0n |
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When I've burnished moly powder into metal, the coloration of the metal itself changes and as was previously stated, solvents don't even remove the bonded moly molecule. Does that make it clear as mud too?  |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 3:42 pm |
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| craigfperry |
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what kind of tool do you use to burnish
is it drill speed or dremel speed |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 4:03 pm |
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| 23ib0d0n |
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| Cloth by hand. Inside of a compression chamber, I've wrapped a cloth patch around a small brake hone assembly and worked the moly in by hand slowly turning the assembly while moving it forward and back until the metal has an even looking coating on it. |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 4:10 pm |
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| craigfperry |
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ok thats cool
when i think of burnishing i was thinking of a vibrating kind of setup
what makes the tar i am reading about.
thanks for letting me pic your brain. |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 7:46 pm |
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| cw |
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This stuff is great! It will really prolongs the life
of the mechanism.
http://www.airguns.citymax.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm
Just work it into the metal. You have to remove all excess from
the compression chamber because it will slowly diesel. It's also
great for cocking linkages and shoes and barrel pivots.
CW |
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Last edited by cw on Sat May 31, 2008 8:44 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 8:03 pm |
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| craigfperry |
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ok cw
so i would burnish with the moly powder then i would use a small amount
of tar on the seal
do you burnish on a smooth polished surface or a cross hatch kind of thing
and thanks to you for the info |
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 8:09 pm |
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| cw |
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It's a paste of grease, 70% moly powder and powdered graphite.
very slick, durable stuff when bonded to a metalic surface.
I have used it to protect and change the appearance of bare
and blued metal sufaces. It adds an almost titanium appearance.
As for the seal, put a small amount all the way around it, ONLY behind
the piston seal. None in front of it, or you will get dieseling. If done
right, there should be NO dieseling. |
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