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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing » A Polyurethane To Try
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A Polyurethane To Try 
PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 1:22 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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I just used some of this on a gunstock, and it is good stuff. The best part is the "any angle" valve. The finish comes out in a fog, much like you would see exiting a room humidifier. You would have to be trying to get it to run:


Ten coats of Birchwood Casey Tru Oil, three of this poly, and two coats of paste wax:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:14 pm Reply with quote
robert w
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I was looking for a different way to finish gun stocks . I have a stoeger x5 that shows some nice grain , but the china woodworker didn't do a good job . that would be a nice place to try it. where did you get it ? lowes,home depot,walmart? looks great from what I see in that photo

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:30 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
that would be a nice place to try it. where did you get it ?

Lowe's. Ask at your local retailer - maybe they can get it. Or use Rustoleum's website to see where it's sold. Or do like I did, and just send your wife out to see what she can find:
http://www.rustoleum.com/

The stock is American walnut, and I didn't use any stain. I wanted the Tru Oil for penetration and "depth," and the poly on top for durability.

I steamed out the dents with an iron and damp rag, and then scraped/sanded the finish off down to 320 grit. (The remaining dings I filled with a mix of sawdust and Tru Oil.) Coats 1-3 of Tru Oil went on thick (brushed), and were sanded out with 320 grit.

Coat #4 of the Tru Oil went on brushed, and was wet sanded with 320 grit lightly across the grain until it was sticky with finish particles (to fill the pores). When it dried it was sanded with 320 along the grain.

Coats 5-10 of the Tru Oil were wiped on, using just enough to wet the surface. 5-7 were sanded out with 320, and 8-10 with a fine Scotchbrite type pad.

Coats 1-2 of the poly were rubbed out with the Scotchbrite, and coat 3 was rubbed out with automotive paint polishing compound to kill the gloss. Two coats of paste wax went on top of that.

The finish was pretty much filled and level at the end of the Tru Oil, but I wanted the durability of the poly. I was really impressed with the valve - not at all like the garden hose spray most cans have. Just a very fine mist.

This might seem like a lot of messing around, but the real effort is really in surface preparation and the first few coats. After that it's a quick rub and more finish. Most of your time will be spent watching it dry (which is O.K., since it beats most cable channels.) I was able to get on three coats of Tru Oil and two of the poly per day.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:53 pm Reply with quote
rsterne
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I use Watco Danish Oil on my stocks, and I thought I would try your suggestion of wet sanding across the grain and allowing that coat to dry to fill the grain and then sanding it off later.... I kept sanding until the oil was getting sticky and then left it dry 48 hours (it wasn't really dry after 24) and when I tried sanding it, it gummed up the sandpaper (I tried 320, 400, and 220).... I eventually used a purple 3M Scotchbrite pad (320 equivalent) across the grain to remove the oil and leave the pores filled.... I had to work across the grain, sanding with the grain removed the filler (somewhat) from the pores....

While I'm reasonably satisfied with the finish at this point, I still have several coats of oil to apply and wet sand with 400 and then 600 as I usually do.... I just wanted to let you know that the Watco Oil doesn't work very well as a filler, it doesn't want to harden.... Normal application is to wipe it completely dry before allowing it to harden overnight between coats, and now I can see why.... It doesn't take kindly to sitting on the surface....

Bob

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 12:34 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Tru Oil is an oil finish in that it penetrates as a liquid and then polymerizes in place with oxygen. (As opposed to having a vehicle evaporate, leaving a suspended or dissolved resin behind). I have read that it is treated with heat somehow to accelerate the drying time. I have used tung oil and boiled linseed oil, and the Tru Oil is definitely faster. The other oil finishes are beautiful, but it takes a long time to get beyond the "gummy mess" stage.

I used the Tru Oil for depth, sealing, and filling. The polyurethane went on top for durability. I imagine you would have to wait quite a while for the other oil finishes to fully cure before applying poly. Otherwise, the poly would seal off the oxygen supply and the oil underneath never would fully polymerize.

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A Polyurethane To Try 
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