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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing » Anyone ever cut their own stock from the 'ground up' Goto page 1, 2  Next
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Anyone ever cut their own stock from the 'ground up' 
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 1:06 am Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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I was just wondering how easy it is to find a single block of wood for a stock that would be 7" from lowest-to-highest point, about 4" wide and 30" long?

On a related note- these laminate stocks that are around in funky colors- is the wood soaked in some sort of dye prior to drying to achieve this? And if it's a laminate- wouldn't there be an issue with the glue and the dye?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 5:02 pm Reply with quote
garththomas
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I looked into getting a block of wood by calling small local sawmills and it seemed most were familiar with supplying material for that purpose.
As far as laminates go for some and I would think the more striking or exotic looking the wood is stained before being laminated. The stain doesn't affect the glue. I am sure there veneers can be sourced as well or even cut yourself if you have decent equipment. I made the stock for my QB57 from Baltic Birch plywood because I found some scrape that was free. Finding tooling that will cut to the size and shape without breaking the bank is the tricky part.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:25 pm Reply with quote
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The smaller mills may be the way to go to get the right size pieces- the "wood specialist" type vendors I have found tend to only stock flooring and basic turning (i.e. table leg) type stuff. Of course if I wanted to use some sort of "exotic" wood, that could be an issue.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:35 pm Reply with quote
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I can't remember the name of the place I had contacted about 45mins. out of London but he supplied blanks for a stock maker and he carried some imported types as well. I will also try to get the name of a place near T.O. where a buddy of mine who makes laminated canoe paddles likes to shop. I started in the Yellow pages.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:26 pm Reply with quote
ZipSnipe
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Most stocks are about 2" wide Eric I would look for something if it was rough cut 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 " thick.

Also for 7" I would go to a mill and have them cut it or find something close that they have in stock. A mill would usually have an 8" or 12" jointer which is what ya would need to straighten out the wood. If you have a planer then just have the mill joint two sides square and plane the rest yourself

Also I have seen a few good deals on walnut and other gun blanks on Ebay at a fair price when you figure all the driving around to find a mill.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 10:33 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Google "gunstock blanks" and you will find several sources. The 30"X7" part won't be a problem, but ZipSnipe is right about the 2 1/2" dimension - 4" might be tough.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 12:12 am Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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I'm not talking about buying 'blanks'- but raw, dried wood.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 2:07 am Reply with quote
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Well you can still find those on Ebay as well Eric just type in Wood Blanks, you will have to weave thru the pen blanks but usually there are several blanks close to your dimensions.

Also on your laminate stock question yes they do soak those veneers in dye, each veneer is 1/16" thick. I tried to do a laminate stock but I could only do 1/8" veneers and no dye.

Do you have a jointer and a planer?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:45 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
I'm not talking about buying 'blanks'- but raw, dried wood.

Look for a sawmill, or check with a lumber yard about ordering in such a thing.

Ask about how the piece was dried. Plants have a cell membrane (like animals) surrounded by a cellulose wall. Think balloon inside a shoe box. If the piece is kiln dried, many of those membranes rupture, and can never again swell with moisture. That makes the piece more dimensionally stable. If it was air dried, it can warp, cup, or split with changes in humidity. For furniture, wood should be air dried for about a year to bring down the moisture level. It should then be placed in the environment where it will be used for a month to stabilize at that humidity level.

Also look for traces of limbs in the blank. The weight of tree branches causes some cells to be stretched and others to be compressed. They get frozen in place as the tree grows more wood around them, but they're like a cocked mainspring. Cutting into that "reaction wood" can cause them to come unsprung.

Laminates minimize all those problems.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:44 pm Reply with quote
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And if you get the wood from a small mill and they don't have one of those press ovens to dry the wood out then the usual rule of thumb is a year per inch thickness of wood and watch for the stuff Slavia mentions

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laminated stock blanks 
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:51 pm Reply with quote
badshot
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Virtually all the laminated plywood for stock blanks is made by this
company http://www.rutply.com/about/index.html Both Boyds
and Richards buy from them.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 6:37 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Interesting. What are Boyd's and Richards charging for a laminate color stock these days? (some of the prices on the panels is quite high- i.e. $150.00)

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Boyds prices 
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:14 pm Reply with quote
badshot
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Eric, here is a link to Boyds blanks. http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/Walnut-and-Laminate-Hardwood-Gunstock-Blanks-s/79.htm

I think boyds buys so many you could buy a blank cheaper from them than dealing with Rutland.
As I don't know how to put two links on the same post I'll do the Richards one in another post.

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Richards blank prices 
PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:18 pm Reply with quote
badshot
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Here you go, http://www.rifle-stocks.com/laminated_blanks.htm
Living in Canada the shipping just kills us.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:52 pm Reply with quote
robert w
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might try gun broker as they had some nice blanks up for auction a while back

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Anyone ever cut their own stock from the 'ground up' 
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