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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing » seeking stippling advice
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seeking stippling advice 
PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:06 pm Reply with quote
Roy
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Huh?

I have decided that my plain beech rifle stock needs some sort of accent, and I think stippling the grip area is the best option. My idea is to bound the area with a single cut line, stipple, and color it black like the R11,FWB300, etc.

If you have successfully completed a project like this, I'd love to hear about it ! Photos would be verrrrrrrrry interesting. Advice, opinions, information, and comments are welcome !
Keep it Zeroed,
Roy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:13 pm Reply with quote
23ib0d0n
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Dan Kueng took a few pics and wrote a few lines here > http://www.blueline-studios.com/kuengairguns.com/workshop.html
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 3:32 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Poke through this thread:
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=1436&start=0

If you don't want quite as much contrast as with black paint, remember the stippled area will be slightly darker with the same stain/finish as the surrounding area.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:39 pm Reply with quote
Roy
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Thanks 23ib0d0n and Slavia. That's good info. ; my questions have been answered. I have a rotary tool and some nails; I will experiment with the different techniques.
Roy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:42 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Here is what the Dremel method looks like -
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=1302&highlight=

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 7:54 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
Dan Kueng took a few pics and wrote a few lines here


He prefers the Dremel method for a couple of reasons. One, he believes that by cutting the wood (rather than compressing) any finish applied will look more even. Two, using a Dremel avoids gouging out fibers like a pin (or nail) would do.

I have only "pin" stippled walnut, followed by an oil finish and no stain. It turned out even enough, but I can understand how a stain might not be absorbed as evenly. On the other hand, if contrast is the goal, then this may be an advantage.

He is absolutely right about gouging out fibers. The tool needs to be round (a nail is slightly chisel shaped), and it needs to hit the work surface at a right angle so you don't get under the fibers and lever them out. Also notice in the picture that the point is not very sharp. (This is a dead screwdriver with an approx. 3/16" shaft, ground with a belt sander.)

You might also consider scale when choosing a technique. To my aesthetic sense, the Dremel would leave too coarse a surface to look right on a small area like a pistol grip. It may, however, look just fine on a larger rifle stock.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 3:52 pm Reply with quote
Roy
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I am leaning toward the Dremel method for a couple of reasons: First, I think this method will allow me to most closely duplicate the stippling seen on some 10m match rifles and pistols. And second, the stock is already finished with a glossy oil; cutting out the finish will give the area some textural and "flat"(no sheen) contrast. That is the accent I am looking for. And to color the area evenly, I will "stain" it with a dye rather than an opaque stain. To preserve the flat appearance, I will apply tung oil because it naturally dries with a flatter sheen.

I agree about the aesthetic considerations of "scale". Finer is better. Dremel sells some tiny round head engraving cutters that are small enough. I'll get one.

Lastly, what border shape should the stippled area have ? It should be large enough for all the contact points of my hand, and look good at the same time. We'll see.
Roy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 6:39 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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On synthetic stocks I use padded toolbox shelf liner put on with double faced tape:

http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=887&start=30

Maybe you could use that stuff to experimentally determine the area you (eventually) wish to stipple.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 6:14 pm Reply with quote
Roy
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Good idea.
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seeking stippling advice 
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