 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | P17 Issue - Trigger |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 1:17 pm |
|
|
| Bean |
| Veteran Member |

|
 |
| Joined: 23 Sep 2008 |
| Posts: 127 |
| Location: Bel Air MD |
|
|
 |
I know the P17's are prone to worn o-rings after some time. This pistol is 2 weeks and ~ 5-600 shots old, already getting an air leak occasionally. I lubed it - good for now. I'll worry about it when it gets worse.
New development today. 4 times within 30 shots, a full pull on the trigger did not fire the gun. Yes the safety was off, can't move the trigger with it on.
Squeezing it harder did not fire it, I had to pull it sharply while aiming into the ground to fire it.
Have I missed complaints on this or is this really a odd problem? I have no problem going for a replacement but if this is common I'm not sure I want another one....
Bean
edit... just realized i post this in the wrong forum, sorry. Also, because I'm annoyed - I've kept shotting to see what happens - this is happening every two or three shots now. Goin' back... |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 4:28 pm |
|
|
| cw |
| Banned |
 |
 |
| Joined: 10 Feb 2008 |
| Posts: 1771 |
|
|
|
 |
Mine did the same thing when I first got it. Lubricating the trigger group
cured the problem. good luck with it and have fun, they're a great pistol. |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 9:55 am |
|
|
| Slavia |
| Moderator |

 |
 |
| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
| Posts: 4382 |
| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
|
|
 |
No such problem with mine. Lubrication sounds like a good idea.
Seriously consider chamfering or de-burring the air inlet hole on the side of the cylinder. This will eliminate piston seal damage. On the plus side, I got all my seals ("o" rings) at an automotive parts store, and they're not hard to change. |
|
_________________
¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego! |
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 5:46 pm |
|
|
| cw |
| Banned |
 |
 |
| Joined: 10 Feb 2008 |
| Posts: 1771 |
|
|
|
 |
Hey Bean,
I just seviced a P17 that had the same problem because
of a loose valve stem nut. see photo. try tightening it and see if
your problem goes away.
 |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:10 pm |
|
|
| Bean |
| Veteran Member |

|
 |
| Joined: 23 Sep 2008 |
| Posts: 127 |
| Location: Bel Air MD |
|
|
 |
Thanks cw !!
Thats great info - I need the visuals.
Since I was having this issue on a 2 week old gun, I sent it back for a replacement. Unfortunately, the replacement is developing an air leak after only ~ 150 shots. I'm tempted to keep this one as the trigger is much crisper and it seems to a little more consistent but I'd need to learn how to do the seals/o rings myself.
If you have any pointers/pictures/links to write ups on the o-rings and the right pieces to pollish to avoid repeat issues, I'd be in your debt.
Bean |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:46 pm |
|
|
| cw |
| Banned |
 |
 |
| Joined: 10 Feb 2008 |
| Posts: 1771 |
|
|
|
 |
You need to chamfer the air intake port. The piston o-ring slides
past the intake port at the end of the cocking stroke.
This is what causes the hiss you hear at the end of the cocking stroke
if you hold your ear next to the gun. If the port edge is sharp and not
chamfered (beveled), a small chunk of o-ring will be torn out each
time the gun is cocked. I will be able to post photos tomorrow, if it
will help. |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:27 pm |
|
|
| Bean |
| Veteran Member |

|
 |
| Joined: 23 Sep 2008 |
| Posts: 127 |
| Location: Bel Air MD |
|
|
 |
Pics would help tremendously. I'm not affraid to take things apart, but taking the right things apart and getting them back together has always been my issue. I'm an offroader - I'm used to working on much larger parts - like Jeep suspensions. And even then..... I'm not always succesful.
If you're willing, what I'm really looking for is 'how' to get to the o rings etc. And then a pic of the area to work on, but I think I can picture that in my head... crap maybe I should just send you the gun.
...edit for stupid typing (at least what I noticed) |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 11:10 pm |
|
|
| Slavia |
| Moderator |

 |
 |
| Joined: 31 Mar 2008 |
| Posts: 4382 |
| Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA |
|
|
 |
It's not difficult:
Loosen the setscrew at the end of the piston. It only has to be loose; it does not have to come out.
Push the pin out. The piston can now be pulled out of the cylinder. The piston seal is an "O" ring at the head of the piston, much like a ring on an automobile piston. When they drilled the air inlet hole, they probably left burrs that are tearing the seal. This was true for both CW's P17 and my Marksman 2004.
I teased out the burr with a pocket knife, and then smoothed the area with fine emery cloth. Clean everything well with a clean cloth. (Don't use solvents that can migrate into the valve body and cause seal degredation inside.) CW will probably have a more elegant way to chamfer that hole.
I got my "O" ring at an automotive parts store. Just bring in the old one and get the same size. Put a very thin coating of lubricant on the inside of the cylinder before assembly. I use a synthetic grease; I belive CW uses moly.
 |
|
_________________
¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego! |
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:00 am |
|
|
| Bean |
| Veteran Member |

|
 |
| Joined: 23 Sep 2008 |
| Posts: 127 |
| Location: Bel Air MD |
|
|
 |
| You guys are fantastic. Thank you very much. |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:30 pm |
|
|
| cw |
| Banned |
 |
 |
| Joined: 10 Feb 2008 |
| Posts: 1771 |
|
|
|
 |
I use a mini die grinder (Dremel or like) with a ball diamond bit.
A fine silicon carbide grindstone will also work, but you will need to
take some 600 or finer emery paper or cloth to the ground area
afterward.
While your in there take a 2mm hex key (allen wrench) and make sure
that the cylinder pivot pin set screw is tight, or the pin might walk during
cocking.
 |
|
|
 |
 |
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | P17 Issue - Trigger |  | |  |  |  |
Air Gun Home Forum Index » Pistols
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Page 1 of 1
|
|
|
|
|  |  |  | | | |  |  |
Note: If you are seeing "Please enter your username and password to log in." Your browser cookies have been reset
or you need to register to access the topic in question. Use the 'Register' button near the top left of this page.
|