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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Rifles » Can I heat the metal to take out the internals? Goto page 1, 2  Next
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Can I heat the metal to take out the internals? 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:01 am Reply with quote
t-maxxracer32
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Hey guys first post..

This question may sound ridiculous but the internal brass peice will not come out of the gun... I followed this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-v0dgxbs04A
but unfortunately everything is much MUCH tighter. Ive got the bolt near out but it appears my 392 is a warped right where the bolt is supposed to come out.

The reason I decided to take the gun apart was because it will not hold air and I could not find anyone local to fix it.

So my question is can I heat up the gun a bit and then pop out the bolt? I'm hoping that as the bolt slides out, it will form the gun back to the size it should be originally.

As a side note.... if anyone repairs these guns or there is a known person for repairing that does not charge an arm and a leg I have this gun and my crosman 1400 that I may just send in to be repaired.... I dont doing simple repairs myself, but if I end up ruining the gun because of it I would be quite upset.

here are some pics to show the damage.







Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:26 am Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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What "bolt" are you referring to? In you pictures I see a tube with a mushroomed end and the valve not quite out.

If it is the valve you cannot remove because of the tube- knock it out from the other side with a rod and a hammer- you may get the tube sized a bit more correctly, you may cause damage to the valve casing. You could file the inside of the tube before knocking out the valve to give it proper spacing.

Your only other option is to punch the valve out the front of the tube. Either way, I think you may be looking at a new valve- which is not terribly expensive from Crosman (somewhere around $20.00).

How did the tube get mushroomed like that? This is not normal at all and I think it would be challenging to try and replicate this. I am thinking someone rested the tube at an angle on a hard surface before trying to beat the valve out. You will need to correct this to fit everything back together and have it look normal.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:36 am Reply with quote
t-maxxracer32
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Yes valve is the word I was looking for- not bolt.
How the mushroom end happened I am not quite sure. I bought the gun from my dad who had it for years and never shot it much.

In order to punch it out I would need to push out the pins in the front of the gun correct? (pardon me for not knowing all the correct terms....)
If so I am a bit worried to do that because it seems it could be quite difficult to get them back in once they are out.

I dont quite follow 100% what you are referring to when you mention to file it.

Thanks for your help!
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 11:03 am Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Look at the parts diagram to determine part numbers/names so we are all communicating on the same pieces (pin?):

http://www.crosman.com/pdf/manuals/B392-EVP%20&%20PL2.pdf

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:05 pm Reply with quote
t-maxxracer32
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Good idea-

so I am trying to get out the valve (397-032), but unfortunately there is mushrooming as shown in the pics.

You mentioned pulling the valve out near the front of the gun however I am nervous to do that because it would require me to pull out pins 397-002 correct? I am sure I can get my hands on a punch to get them out but getting them back in makes me nervous.

So would heating up the mushroomed end be a terrible idea? I will do it very slowly in order to not cause more harm to the gun... but maybe there is something about heating it up that I dont understand.

Thanks for your help
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:17 pm Reply with quote
lampy
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You are past the point of no return, pull the pins and get the pump out then drive the valve out the front. It won't be a big deal. Plus you can do a better clean up with it totally disassembled. Personally I wouldn't use heat, you run the risk of melting the solder holding the breech on, then you would be really screwed....

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 1:59 pm Reply with quote
t-maxxracer32
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Very true. Didnt realize there was solder in there. I will go ahead and attempt to do a full deconstruction.

Does anyone know of someone on this forum that will fix these things even with the issues mine have? I have no idea what the charge for it would be, but I'd rather pay a decent amount to have a working gun rather then throwing it away if I cant fix it myself.

thanks for everyones input
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Location 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 3:22 pm Reply with quote
Big Bore Bart
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Your location would tell us if there's somebody close, who could help. Question

I'm in Northern California, and have the tools and ability to do the repairs. Smile There is a guy in So Cal who specializes in repairing these guns.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 3:53 pm Reply with quote
lampy
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Something to keep in mind, you can buy a new one for $160.
It may shoot fine even with the mushroomed tube. I would start with a reseal, see if it shoots then decide if the tube needs to be straightened. If you decide to tackle it yourself take lots of pictures to help with reassembly. The 392 is pretty popular so there should be videos and "how to" tutorials out there. And post any questions you can't find the answers to here, someone here should be able to get you through it.
BTW the 392 is a great pumper, well worth fixing up Yes Nod

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 8:44 pm Reply with quote
t-maxxracer32
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I am in Yuma, AZ. Socal and northern cal would both be doable and shipping shouldnt be too bad... I will PM you with more details.

I would much rather get these fixing up rather then decommissioning these and buying a new one. I love the fact that its an older gun; even though I dont know its exact age.

Ill give it a shot soon and see how it all goes! thanks for everyone's help.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 10:14 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Based on the valve design, it is unit from 1997-onward (i.e. not an antique).

It likely will shoot with the bent tube- but if you want to be able to put the valve in/out through the rear, then you may have to file in the area where it is out of shape in order to get the hole large enough for the valve to come out.

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Filing 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 11:28 pm Reply with quote
Big Bore Bart
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Shocked No filing!!! Shocked That area has to be reshaped back to round, as the trigger unit and striker spring are anchored there. That is one of the high stress points in the rifle, and must be at full thickness.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 1:58 am Reply with quote
t-maxxracer32
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How would you recommend reshaping it?

Although the guns may only be 15+ years old I still would like to keep them going. I got them from my father and it would be great to pass them on.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 2:54 am Reply with quote
Big Bore Bart
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t-maxxracer32 wrote:
How would you recommend reshaping it?

Although the guns may only be 15+ years old I still would like to keep them going. I got them from my father and it would be great to pass them on.


A piece of 3/4" round steel, turned to a short taper, then polished. Gently tapped into the tube it will return the tube to shape. If needed another piece can be made to fit the outside, and used to swedge the tube to perfection. Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 7:06 am Reply with quote
ZipSnipe
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Those steel tubes are pretty stout, I agree with with Bart except I bet its going to be pretty hard . You might be able to do it the way Bart mentions so long as the steel bar that you use is solid. If you have a bench vise with a flat steel anvil section on the back would help. You need a very solid surface to work from.



Also just for your information heating it up wouldn't have worked as the brass would expand before the steel would, but from the look in the pics what others have said about pulling out the front pins ,seems to be the best route.

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Can I heat the metal to take out the internals? 
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