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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:10 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
It took me 6 hours to make that buttplate for the 760

Sure, but at least you have something to show for those 6 hours. Compare that to 6 hours drinking, or 6 hours playing cards, or 6 hours making polite conversation with the in-laws....

And, if you're like me - those 6 hours don't come close to the time I spent mulling it over in my head.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:37 pm Reply with quote
ZipSnipe
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Well said Slavia!!!!! Bravo !!!!!
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:01 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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[quote="Slavia"]
Quote:

@Alstone - I would go to an automotive supply store and ask. It looks like "Protectacoat" and "Speedliner" are at least two brands sold in your area.


Speedliner needs to be applied by Speedliner using there spray systems, so that’s out.
Protectacoat has gone bust. Dupli-colour can be obtained over here but it is imported from the States, cost is £47.50 or $75.00 per can so I think that’s out also.

My best bet is to lay the parts I need coating down in the road when their tarring the surface, then sprinkle some sand on top. Mr. Green

Al

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:13 am Reply with quote
Big Ern
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Wow that's really expensive for the bedliner spray Al. I thought they would have it available everywhere since it's so popular now. Over here it's about $12 a can. One can goes a long way.

I just did my 1389 pump arm which was green and the grips on the 2240 I just got. I would keep checking local auto parts stores to see if they might have a different brand perhaps.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:14 am Reply with quote
Big Ern
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Slavia wrote:
Quote:
It took me 6 hours to make that buttplate for the 760

Sure, but at least you have something to show for those 6 hours. Compare that to 6 hours drinking, or 6 hours playing cards, or 6 hours making polite conversation with the in-laws....

And, if you're like me - those 6 hours don't come close to the time I spent mulling it over in my head.


Laughing Laughing Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 11:31 am Reply with quote
ZipSnipe
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Yeah the dupli color here at Autozone is about $10 and at Home Depot they have the Rustoleum bedliner spray for about $8
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:43 am Reply with quote
Big Ern
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ZipSnipe wrote:
Yeah the dupli color here at Autozone is about $10 and at Home Depot they have the Rustoleum bedliner spray for about $8


I think the Dupli Color has more texture than the Rustolium one. I had both in my hands and liked the Dupli Color one better.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:59 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Dupli Color has more texture than the Rustolium

Which brings another point to mind - you have to shake the stuff really well so the texturing comes out evenly.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:03 am Reply with quote
Big Ern
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Slavia wrote:
Quote:
Dupli Color has more texture than the Rustolium

Which brings another point to mind - you have to shake the stuff really well so the texturing comes out evenly.


Good point Slav. Also clean the nozzle every now and then to prevent spitting. Oh and don't do it inside the house!
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:52 am Reply with quote
Mark5043
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Great Job on that 760 Ern!It's the nicest I've seen so far... Thumb Up!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 6:53 pm Reply with quote
SMP
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Wicked job Ernesto:thumbup:


Slavia wrote:
Quote:
Cutting 1/8" thick aluminum with a Dremel sucks!

It does indeed. A saber saw isn't much use either. If you clamp the aluminum in a vise close enough to the cut that it doesn't flap around, then there isn't enough room to maneuver. I usually use a hacksaw. If the adjacent stock is to be refinished then I dress it down with a belt sander. If I want to preserve the stock finish I lay on a single layer of masking tape and hand file until I start scuffing the tape.



A trick I picked up in the shipyards. Clamp the aluminum between scraps of masonite. I use double sided tape here and there to keep things together while switching clamps around (keep it out of the cut line line). Then install a coarse blade in the jigsaw and have att'er. The cut will be very clean and you can fly through it without clogging the blade.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:40 am Reply with quote
Big Ern
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Mark5043 wrote:
Great Job on that 760 Ern!It's the nicest I've seen so far... Thumb Up!


Thanks mark!
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:41 am Reply with quote
Big Ern
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SMP wrote:
Wicked job Ernesto:thumbup:


Slavia wrote:
Quote:
Cutting 1/8" thick aluminum with a Dremel sucks!

It does indeed. A saber saw isn't much use either. If you clamp the aluminum in a vise close enough to the cut that it doesn't flap around, then there isn't enough room to maneuver. I usually use a hacksaw. If the adjacent stock is to be refinished then I dress it down with a belt sander. If I want to preserve the stock finish I lay on a single layer of masking tape and hand file until I start scuffing the tape.



A trick I picked up in the shipyards. Clamp the aluminum between scraps of masonite. I use double sided tape here and there to keep things together while switching clamps around (keep it out of the cut line line). Then install a coarse blade in the jigsaw and have att'er. The cut will be very clean and you can fly through it without clogging the blade.


Good tip SMP! I needed this info about two weeks ago! It took me about 45 minutes to cut each piece of aluminun with the Dremel but it worked.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:53 pm Reply with quote
ZipSnipe
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actually a bandsaw works the best for cutting sheet aluminum other than sheet metal sheer. I use my wood cutting bandsaw and switch a metal cutting blade on it. If I am doing thick stuff , I will use coolant.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 8:52 pm Reply with quote
SMP
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Even with your bandsaw you should try the masonite trick. Boatyards are cutting thousands of feet everyday. If coolant was the best bang for their buck they would be doing it.

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