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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Picture Gallery » Operation Desert Storm Goto page 1, 2  Next    View previous topic :: View next topic  Operation Desert Storm   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:06 am Big Ern Veteran Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 357 Location: Miami Fl. After eliminating all hostile aluminun cans in Miami, the 760 will be re-deployed on a new mission! I decided to go with a black and tan theme. This was alot of work but I think it turned out great! The incision Making the cheekrest out of PVC Cutting 1/8" thick aluminum with a Dremel sucks! Buttplate done PVC brake done Pump arm done Stock done The finished product   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:27 am RVTMaverick Member Joined: 05 Sep 2011 Posts: 59 Location: VA. Are YOU Kidding Me, I swear, some people are so Talented! Looks AWESOME Mang., well done! Peace Jeff   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:23 pm Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA I like it a lot. Much more attractive (and serious looking) than original. How did you attach the butt plates to the hollow butt? How do you determine if a can is hostile? I would just assume that an empty can loitering about is a threat, and sort out the legalities later. _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:16 pm Big Ern Veteran Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 357 Location: Miami Fl. RVTMaverick wrote: Are YOU Kidding Me, I swear, some people are so Talented! Looks AWESOME Mang., well done! Peace Jeff Thanks Jeff!   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:22 pm Big Ern Veteran Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 357 Location: Miami Fl. Slavia wrote: I like it a lot. Much more attractive (and serious looking) than original. How did you attach the butt plates to the hollow butt? How do you determine if a can is hostile? I would just assume that an empty can loitering about is a threat, and sort out the legalities later. Lol! Thanks Slavia. I attached the buttplate with about 8 drops of Krazy Glue. After I cut it I wasn't sure how I was goint to do it. You only get one chance to stick on straight, if not you need to start over. It took me about three tries. So far it's held up pretty good, I'm real careful when I handle the gun though. I have other types of adhesives I will try if this does not work out. As far as the hostile cans, like you said only the empty ones are hostiles, full cold ones are friendlies   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 6:48 pm ZipSnipe Veteran Member Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Posts: 327 Ern, you have out done urself on this one that is fantastic. My buddy has a 760 and even though I don't care for multi pumps it was a damn accurate bb shooter. I am showing him what you did to yours. By the way I would use epoxy glue, its super strong can't be beat!! Better yet take and make you a wood flat piece shaped to fit inside the butt for about 3/8 of an inch deep. Then fill the whole thing with the two part epoxy( like 2 bucks at Harbor Freight). Sand it smooth and then mark where your 2 bolts go for your adjustable butt plate and drill and tap   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:00 pm Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND Another cracking job Ern! How did you get the black stippled effect? It looks very nice. Al _________________   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:15 pm Big Ern Veteran Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 357 Location: Miami Fl. ZipSnipe wrote: Ern, you have out done urself on this one that is fantastic. My buddy has a 760 and even though I don't care for multi pumps it was a damn accurate bb shooter. I am showing him what you did to yours. By the way I would use epoxy glue, its super strong can't be beat!! Better yet take and make you a wood flat piece shaped to fit inside the butt for about 3/8 of an inch deep. Then fill the whole thing with the two part epoxy( like 2 bucks at Harbor Freight). Sand it smooth and then mark where your 2 bolts go for your adjustable butt plate and drill and tap Thanks Zip! Yeah multi pumps are super accurate since there is really no recoil. I've become a pumper fan after my 1377. I have the epoxy ready to go like you said but I tried the Krazy Glue just to see if it would work and it did! But I'm ready with the epoxy in case it falls off lol! I thought about the same idea you have about putting the wood in the stock but I thought it would be too much work and I was getting inpatient and wanted to finish up. Maybe in the future I will do that. I should have rounded off the corners on the cheek rest now that I look at it... I might get another 760 and do another one but different. Do I see a black and tan 1077 in your future? Last edited by Big Ern on Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:23 pm; edited 1 time in total   Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:20 pm Big Ern Veteran Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 357 Location: Miami Fl. Alstone wrote: Another cracking job Ern! How did you get the black stippled effect? It looks very nice. Al Thanks Al! I used that spray on truck bedliner stuff. It makes a real mess but the results are pretty awesome. I use it on everything now I can think of. I just did my 9oz QB79 tank and it came out great!   Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:28 am Alstone Moderator & Site Supporter Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 4139 Location: Linconshire, ENGLAND Big Ern wrote: Alstone wrote: Another cracking job Ern! How did you get the black stippled effect? It looks very nice. Al Thanks Al! I used that spray on truck bedliner stuff. It makes a real mess but the results are pretty awesome. I use it on everything now I can think of. I just did my 9oz QB79 tank and it came out great! Never heard of that stuff over here, is it for truck chassis? Whatever it does a fine job it's amazing what alternative uses you can find for things. Good stuff! Al _________________   Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:05 am Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA Quote: Never heard of that stuff over here, is it for truck chassis? Undercoating for a vehicle chassis/bodywork is a rubbery film to guard against rust. It is somewhat resilient to absorb dings from pebbles and the like. Bed liner is for the cargo area of a truck - it cures a little harder than undercoating, and has grit in it for a non-skid surface. Bed liner is a sticky gooey mess to apply, but it's wonderfully tough when it cures. _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:37 am Big Ern Veteran Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 357 Location: Miami Fl. Slavia wrote: Quote: Never heard of that stuff over here, is it for truck chassis? Undercoating for a vehicle chassis/bodywork is a rubbery film to guard against rust. It is somewhat resilient to absorb dings from pebbles and the like. Bed liner is for the cargo area of a truck - it cures a little harder than undercoating, and has grit in it for a non-skid surface. Bed liner is a sticky gooey mess to apply, but it's wonderfully tough when it cures. You explained it perfectly Slavia. Thanks, I couldn't have said it better myself. Here is the stuff I used and yes it's a mess but the results are amazing once you get the hang of it. It drips a lot so I used a moist paper towel to fix the drips as it's drying. The bedliner spray The co2 tank I just did   Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 7:40 pm pangborn83 New Member Joined: 28 May 2012 Posts: 4 Location: NY looks alot cooler than my first pellet gun which was a 760 lol man that was forever ago.   Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:44 am Slavia Moderator Joined: 31 Mar 2008 Posts: 4382 Location: Waseca, Minnesota, USA Quote: Cutting 1/8" thick aluminum with a Dremel sucks! It does indeed. A saber saw isn't much use either. If you clamp the aluminum in a vise close enough to the cut that it doesn't flap around, then there isn't enough room to maneuver. I usually use a hacksaw. If the adjacent stock is to be refinished then I dress it down with a belt sander. If I want to preserve the stock finish I lay on a single layer of masking tape and hand file until I start scuffing the tape. Quote: It drips a lot so I used a moist paper towel to fix the drips as it's drying. Bedliner is good stuff in that regard, because it has enough texture to hide the "fix." With regular paint you would have to let it dry and sand out the imperfection. Bedliner sticks pretty well, but if you get too much in one spot it sags like a mudslide. I change my painting technique a little for bedliner. I hold the can about 2" farther away than I would with regular paint. Instead of hanging the parts and painting vertical surfaces, I try to position them horizontally. I spray very thin coats (just a "dusting") and let them set up for a few minutes before continuing. You know how they say you should open the valve off the workpiece and make a steady, even pass to prevent buildup in one spot? That's doubly true with bedliner. It seems that bedliner won't stick to all plastics, so I have taken to using black Krylon Fusion as a primer. I prime wood and metal as normal. If you want to add gloss you can also spray polyurethane on top. @Alstone - I would go to an automotive supply store and ask. It looks like "Protectacoat" and "Speedliner" are at least two brands sold in your area. _________________ ¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego!   Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:05 am Big Ern Veteran Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Posts: 357 Location: Miami Fl. Slavia you always explain everything so well lol! Man I was holding the piece of aluminum with my hands when cutting! I broke about 15 cutting wheels cutting these things! You are so lucky to have a belt sander. I can really use one of those on many of my projects. I sanded everything by hand. It took me 6 hours to make that buttplate for the 760. I showed it to my wife and she said it was nice, then I told her this took me 6 hours to make... she didn't respond. Yeah the bedliner stuff was a little frustrating at first but then I started to get the hang of it. This was my first time using it. I learned to hang things horizontally like you said. I also stood back further than usual and sprayed it in spurts as apposed to spraying an even coat all the way across. This technique worked great for me and kept things cleaner. Thank God it hides flaws really well. Using a moist paper towel to dab the drips really helped the outcome. You can always recoat which is great. 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