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springer barrel wiggle? 
PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:43 am Reply with quote
alex19ccc
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Location: springfield missouri
i noticed that the barrel on my phantom will wiggle left and right just a tiny bit.. i tried tightening the screw and everything....still wiggles... when i shake the gun for example.. it seems like this could rlly throw off my accuracy at distances, it does it rather the gun is cocked or not. (yes i had to dry fire a few times) :/

is this normal for springers??

(i apologize for posting so many topics)

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:05 am Reply with quote
SMP
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Yes I have noticed that often the barrels of Phantoms/Quests will have a bit of a wiggle in them.

The ideal barrel will stay where you put it after it's cocked. If it falls on it's own weight then its too loose. But because of the way the head of the pivot screw is designed it will lock up before you can really apply much tension.

The fix is to replace the two flat plastic washers in the barrel pivot with metal ones ideally brass.
You can buy replacements in a variety of thicknesses
http://www.airguntoys.com/
http://www.airgunsmith.com/quest/quest.htm

or you can make your own.
I think I found that a 5/16 brass washer fit the OD perfectly then you just need to drill the ID for the bushing sleeve in the barrel.
After that you lap (sand) the washer to the correct thickness.

The correct thickness is where you can just barely slide the barrel into the forks.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:48 am Reply with quote
alex19ccc
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its sits fine and holds its seal (i blew down the barrel and no air pressure leaked lol)
so the seal is fine... it just wobbles slightly left and right, not up n down, im thinking about exchanging it for another at walmart to make sure its not just MY gun.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:00 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
because of the way the head of the pivot screw is designed it will lock up before you can really apply much tension.

On my G1 the head would slide all the way through the hole, so no problem getting it tight against the breech block. On my Titan I found that the head (and hole) had a slight taper, so it did indeed lock before bearing against the breech block. I spun it in a drill and dressed down the head with a Dremel until it worked.

Quote:
The ideal barrel will stay where you put it after it's cocked. If it falls on it's own weight then its too loose.

Correct, but now the problem is keeping the screw in place. The rotating breech block exerts torque directly on the screw head and wants to loosen it. Some people have used blue Loctite succesfully (but only on the threads). On both my G1 and Titan I drilled and tapped for a setscrew that locks the head of the pivot screw:


Quote:
a 5/16 brass washer fit the OD perfectly then you just need to drill the ID for the bushing sleeve in the barrel. After that you lap (sand) the washer to the correct thickness.


I use a carborundum sharpening stone that has coarse and fine grits on either side. I take a few strokes, turn the washer 1/4 turn and grind some more, another 1/4 turn and grind, etc. It helps to double over a piece of duct tape so you don't grind off your fingerprints at the same time. A piece of sandpaper or emery cloth on a flat surface will do the same thing.

If you deal with a hardware store that has parts bins (as opposed to poly bags) then measure several of the washers. I found a 0.010" spread in the thicknesses of the washers at Charlie's Hardware here in Waseca. (They're used to me obsessing over a single screw or washer.) If you don't have calipers or a micrometer then ask at the store - they might have one. Take the plastic washers in and measure them to compare.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:20 am Reply with quote
SMP
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Excellent solution Slavia for pinning the screw. I actually went the other way and added brass shim stock(0.004") to the hole so that both halves of the fork would squeeze against the breach block. I cut a small washer from the shim stock and just swaged it in with the screw.

If you have the means to measure the washer I wrote in my log that the combined thickness of two washers was 0.117"....use that as a rough starting point. Start slightly thicker.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:11 am Reply with quote
Crosman140
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@ alex19ccc: Um...I would never put the barrel of a gun in my mouth. Shocked

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:39 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Um...I would never put the barrel of a gun in my mouth.

I missed that - Crosman140 is completely correct. A better way would be to put a piece of vinyl tubing over the muzzle so you can blow without having the muzzle pointed at your face. (Black powder shooters do this to soften the powder fouling before reloading.) Either that or drape a small piece of tissue over the breech when you shoot.

Quote:
the combined thickness of two washers was 0.117"

I think I remember the Titan's plastic washers being 0.065" (combined = 0.130"). But then they had been out of the gun for a couple of days, and plastic compresses, so my experience probably squares with SMP's.

Quote:
added brass shim stock(0.004")

Excellent idea. My shim stock comes from the grocery store, and I just measured a diet Coke can wall at 0.003".

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:54 pm Reply with quote
domer_pyle
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SMP means after you cock the gun the barrel should stay anywhere you put it and not move freely by its own weight. If it was wiggling up and down after being locked up you'd have a bad detent latch I think it's called. My Genesis had the same problem but was only so bad that a good turn of the screw and some blue lock-tite cured it
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 6:33 pm Reply with quote
radar
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That's good to know--the part about staying put. Now I'll have to check mine...
I learn a lot from you guys.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 5:37 am Reply with quote
NZ Shooter
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Hey mate, can I ask why you "had" to dry fire your rifle Question just curious. Cheers
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:07 am Reply with quote
radar
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Slavia wrote:
Excellent idea. My shim stock comes from the grocery store, and I just measured a diet Coke can wall at 0.003".

Brilliant!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:11 am Reply with quote
SMP
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radar wrote:
Slavia wrote:
Excellent idea. My shim stock comes from the grocery store, and I just measured a diet Coke can wall at 0.003".

Brilliant!


There is frugal and then there is Slavia frugal Laughing

For the rest of us a sampler pack of brass shim stock can be had here.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40946&cat=1,43456,43407

A lifetime supply for $9.50....once purchased you can select a shim that's suited to the job Mr. Green

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:03 pm Reply with quote
radar
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SMP wrote:
There is frugal and then there is Slavia frugal Laughing

For the rest of us a sampler pack of brass shim stock can be had here.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40946&cat=1,43456,43407

A lifetime supply for $9.50....once purchased you can select a shim that's suited to the job Mr. Green

LOL.
That's a good source to know. Thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:28 pm Reply with quote
MSEO
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Lee Valley is a great source for lots of things. I tried a half dozen places with no luck before I found shim stock there.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:49 am Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
There is frugal and then there is Slavia frugal

I'll have you know that I have paid full retail price on many occasions. I think the last time Eisenhower's picture was on the wall.

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springer barrel wiggle? 
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