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Air Gun Home Forum Index » General Air Gun Questions and Topics » chamber oil Goto page 1, 2  Next    View previous topic :: View next topic  chamber oil   Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 9:55 am Jeremy Veteran Member Joined: 19 May 2010 Posts: 154 Hi Guys I need to pick up some chamber oil and cant find the crossman chmaber oil around here but can get the RWS chamber oil easy, thats a safe alternative correct? Cheers Jeremy   Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 10:22 am AirGunEric Site Admin Joined: 20 Jan 2007 Posts: 6930 Location: "Out There" The RWS product would work fine. Usually, however, it is generally more expensive than the Crosman product- but is essentially the same thing. _________________ ` I'd say "I care." But I'd be lying. Canadian Airgun Supplier: http://www.scopesandammo.com/storefront   Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:02 am fritz Silver Status Member Joined: 25 Nov 2008 Posts: 2444 Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia It's a silicone lube. You could use any generic that is 100% silicone, with no petroleum distillates (particularly propellants or thinners). When I rebuilt my D34 and Super Streak I took the risk and used an aerosol silicone lube. However, I let it sit for 24 hours before adding the pistons back in. That let the petroleum(s) evaporate. _________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly. It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person.   Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:06 pm Jeremy Veteran Member Joined: 19 May 2010 Posts: 154 thanks guys , I shouldnt use chamber oil on the cocking lever though right? should use spring oil for that?   Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:54 pm Dukemeister Member Joined: 08 Feb 2010 Posts: 92 Location: Ontario, Canada Jeremy wrote: thanks guys , I shouldnt use chamber oil on the cocking lever though right? should use spring oil for that? Metal to metal, use moly or non-detergent straight weight SAE30, or a mixture of both. Never use silicone oil on metal to metal -it will gall. _________________ Duke ))))----//----------==   Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:59 pm Jeremy Veteran Member Joined: 19 May 2010 Posts: 154 cheers duke but isnt chamber oil silicone also?? and thats metal to metal in the combustion chamber right?   Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:32 pm AirGunEric Site Admin Joined: 20 Jan 2007 Posts: 6930 Location: "Out There" Jeremy wrote: thats metal to metal in the combustion chamber right? No piston seal in a modern airgun I am aware of is made of metal- so no, there is no metal-metal lubrication going on there. _________________ ` I'd say "I care." But I'd be lying. Canadian Airgun Supplier: http://www.scopesandammo.com/storefront   Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:03 pm fritz Silver Status Member Joined: 25 Nov 2008 Posts: 2444 Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia Piston seal is a rubber/synthetic. A petroleum based lubricant will degrade this over time. Silicone, will not. For all of the metal-metal contacts I use automotive white lithium grease. The spring being an exception, where I use JM's moly tar, which is likely a 60% moly grease that he charges an extra 150% for. I also wiped a near invisible film on the piston (what was left on my gloves after lubing spring), before installation. Of course this was done avoiding the seal. _________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly. It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person.   Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:58 pm Jeremy Veteran Member Joined: 19 May 2010 Posts: 154 hi again guys Old topic, new question. After you apply a couple drops of chamber oil to the compression port do you guys shoot a handful of pellets then run a dry patch back through the barrel? is that necessary? Jeremy   Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:35 pm SMP Silver Status Member Joined: 04 Feb 2011 Posts: 1183 Location: Just south of "Out There"- Land O Lakes Ontario Jeremy That's really a personal choice. It's not necessary. I do because I know the POI will shift after I lube the piston seal so why not give the barrel a wipe at the same time. BTW you can get a lot of maintenance items from scopes and ammo in Perth. The guy who runs the place is pretty cool http://scopesandammo.com/storefront/index.php/airgun-parts-custom-service-airgun-maintenance-items-c-38_50 _________________ Sean   Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:48 pm AirGunEric Site Admin Joined: 20 Jan 2007 Posts: 6930 Location: "Out There" One thing most people don't think of is spreading the lube around the seal. Put a couple drops through the transfer port- sit the rifle on the floor on its butt- muzzle up, let the oil run downward into the chamber. After 15 minutes or so, cock the rifle but don't cock the rifle-you can do this by only using half-strokes- i.e. move the barrel and thus the piston up and down the chamber a few times to get the lube on the seal (hopefully around the entire seal). _________________ ` I'd say "I care." But I'd be lying. Canadian Airgun Supplier: http://www.scopesandammo.com/storefront   Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:07 am Jeremy Veteran Member Joined: 19 May 2010 Posts: 154 SMP wrote: Jeremy That's really a personal choice. It's not necessary. I do because I know the POI will shift after I lube the piston seal so why not give the barrel a wipe at the same time. BTW you can get a lot of maintenance items from scopes and ammo in Perth. The guy who runs the place is pretty cool http://scopesandammo.com/storefront/index.php/airgun-parts-custom-service-airgun-maintenance-items-c-38_50 Yes I have shopped there a few times, he is a good guy   Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:10 pm roofer New Member Joined: 05 Nov 2011 Posts: 4 Location: Ontario Hey Guys New guy here, not so new to airguns though. Have been shooting them on and off for about 24 years since i was 13. Have learned a lot over the years, like home tuning rifles. Unless your particular rifle has a leather seal, you should never add any kind of oil to the transfer port. It will burn out the seals and if you get detonation from the lubricants you can blow the seal or break a spring. I have done both quite a bit until I learned how to tune them Right. Just passing along info I have learned. By the way great forum and glad to be here.   Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 3:29 am AirGunEric Site Admin Joined: 20 Jan 2007 Posts: 6930 Location: "Out There" roofer wrote: Hey Guys New guy here, not so new to airguns though. Have been shooting them on and off for about 24 years since i was 13. Have learned a lot over the years, like home tuning rifles. Unless your particular rifle has a leather seal, you should never add any kind of oil to the transfer port. It will burn out the seals and if you get detonation from the lubricants you can blow the seal or break a spring. I have done both quite a bit until I learned how to tune them Right. Just passing along info I have learned. By the way great forum and glad to be here. Actually- just to fill you in- we have a large number of people here who are well beyond "tuning" guns- machinists, craftsman and extreme hobbyists who have spend scores or hundred of hours learning things hands-on and reading encyclopedias worth of information on paper and online. Others may represent repair facilities authorized by some of the airgun manufacturers. Others still may have torn the same springer apart 50 times to learn everything the "hard way" but nonetheless learned. In order to save you some time; springers up until about 20 years ago did use leather seals and typically did not achieve power much beyond 6.5fpe/600fps in .177, so leaky leather seals on most guns excluding the higher-end products could hardly generate enough compression heat to ignite gasoline, let along the heavier-viscosity oils recommended for lubing the seals. Springers now (excluding a couple of the lowest-end Chinese products) use urethane seals, if lubed with a non-combustible lubricant (100% silicone oil) can achieve power levels of 25+fpe and generate alot more heat with alot less leakage- so yes, a petroleum-based lube would be bad news. _________________ ` I'd say "I care." But I'd be lying. Canadian Airgun Supplier: http://www.scopesandammo.com/storefront   Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:08 am Jeremy Veteran Member Joined: 19 May 2010 Posts: 154 welcome to the forum roofer And I think Eric is right on this one, all of the manuals I have for my spring rifles recommend putting chamber oil ( eg, crosman Silicone chamber oil, RWS chamber oil ) in to the compression port every few hundred pellets. I have one of my dads old pellet rifles and it still has a leather seal and still shoots pretty good, I have been using silicone chamber oil in it for a few years. Hell when they were kids they would lube it with anything they could find I bet that rifle is close to 50 years old chamber oil     Air Gun Home Forum Index » General Air Gun Questions and Topics You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum All times are GMT - 5 Hours   Page 1 of 2   Goto page 1, 2  Next All Posts1 Day7 Days2 Weeks1 Month3 Months6 Months1 Year Oldest FirstNewest First  Select a forum Main Forums----------------AirGunHome Q&AGeneral Air Gun Questions and TopicsPicture GalleryTarget Shooting: Casual, Fun and CompetitionHunting, Pest Control, Varminting People/Events/Airgun Issue Discussion----------------Introduce YourselfThe BS TopicClubs/Events/Regional/Political Airgun Issues Maintenance, Modification and Reviews----------------RiflesPistolsAntique, Collector and Novelty AirgunsBB GunsPellets/AmmoOpticsAccessoriesAirgun Smithing Buy, Sell or Trade Forums----------------For SaleWant to Buy   Note: If you are seeing "Please enter your username and password to log in." 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