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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 9:55 am |
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| Jeremy |
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| Joined: 19 May 2010 |
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Hi Guys
I need to pick up some chamber oil and cant find the crossman chmaber oil around here but can get the RWS chamber oil easy, thats a safe alternative correct?
Cheers
Jeremy |
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 10:22 am |
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| AirGunEric |
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| The RWS product would work fine. Usually, however, it is generally more expensive than the Crosman product- but is essentially the same thing. |
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:02 am |
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| fritz |
| Silver Status Member |

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| Location: New Jersey- outside of Philadelphia |
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It's a silicone lube.
You could use any generic that is 100% silicone, with no petroleum distillates (particularly propellants or thinners).
When I rebuilt my D34 and Super Streak I took the risk and used an aerosol silicone lube. However, I let it sit for 24 hours before adding the pistons back in. That let the petroleum(s) evaporate. |
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_________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa
Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly.
It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person. |
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:06 pm |
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| Jeremy |
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thanks guys , I shouldnt use chamber oil on the cocking lever though right? should use spring oil for that?  |
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:54 pm |
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| Dukemeister |
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| Location: Ontario, Canada |
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| Jeremy wrote: |
thanks guys , I shouldnt use chamber oil on the cocking lever though right? should use spring oil for that?  |
Metal to metal, use moly or non-detergent straight weight SAE30, or a mixture of both. Never use silicone oil on metal to metal -it will gall. |
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_________________ Duke ))))----//----------==
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 3:59 pm |
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| Jeremy |
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cheers duke but isnt chamber oil silicone also?? and thats metal to metal in the combustion chamber right? |
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:32 pm |
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| AirGunEric |
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| Jeremy wrote: |
| thats metal to metal in the combustion chamber right? |
No piston seal in a modern airgun I am aware of is made of metal- so no, there is no metal-metal lubrication going on there. |
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Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:03 pm |
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| fritz |
| Silver Status Member |

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Piston seal is a rubber/synthetic. A petroleum based lubricant will degrade this over time. Silicone, will not.
For all of the metal-metal contacts I use automotive white lithium grease. The spring being an exception, where I use JM's moly tar, which is likely a 60% moly grease that he charges an extra 150% for. I also wiped a near invisible film on the piston (what was left on my gloves after lubing spring), before installation. Of course this was done avoiding the seal. |
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_________________ "I never set out to be wierd, it was always everyone else who called me it" -Frank Zappa
Speed is impressive, accuracy is deadly.
It's not that I'm not a people person, it's just that I'm not a stupid people person. |
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Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 2:58 pm |
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| Jeremy |
| Veteran Member |

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hi again guys
Old topic, new question.
After you apply a couple drops of chamber oil to the compression port do you guys shoot a handful of pellets then run a dry patch back through the barrel? is that necessary?
Jeremy |
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Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:35 pm |
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| SMP |
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_________________ Sean
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Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:48 pm |
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| AirGunEric |
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| One thing most people don't think of is spreading the lube around the seal. Put a couple drops through the transfer port- sit the rifle on the floor on its butt- muzzle up, let the oil run downward into the chamber. After 15 minutes or so, cock the rifle but don't cock the rifle-you can do this by only using half-strokes- i.e. move the barrel and thus the piston up and down the chamber a few times to get the lube on the seal (hopefully around the entire seal). |
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Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:07 am |
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| Jeremy |
| Veteran Member |

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Yes I have shopped there a few times, he is a good guy  |
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Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 8:10 pm |
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| roofer |
| New Member |

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| Location: Ontario |
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Hey Guys
New guy here, not so new to airguns though. Have been shooting them on and off for about 24 years since i was 13.
Have learned a lot over the years, like home tuning rifles.
Unless your particular rifle has a leather seal, you should never add any kind of oil to the transfer port. It will burn out the seals and if you get detonation from the lubricants you can blow the seal or break a spring. I have done both quite a bit until I learned how to tune them Right.
Just passing along info I have learned. By the way great forum and glad to be here. |
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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 3:29 am |
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| AirGunEric |
| Site Admin |

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| roofer wrote: |
Hey Guys
New guy here, not so new to airguns though. Have been shooting them on and off for about 24 years since i was 13.
Have learned a lot over the years, like home tuning rifles.
Unless your particular rifle has a leather seal, you should never add any kind of oil to the transfer port. It will burn out the seals and if you get detonation from the lubricants you can blow the seal or break a spring. I have done both quite a bit until I learned how to tune them Right.
Just passing along info I have learned. By the way great forum and glad to be here. |
Actually- just to fill you in- we have a large number of people here who are well beyond "tuning" guns- machinists, craftsman and extreme hobbyists who have spend scores or hundred of hours learning things hands-on and reading encyclopedias worth of information on paper and online. Others may represent repair facilities authorized by some of the airgun manufacturers. Others still may have torn the same springer apart 50 times to learn everything the "hard way" but nonetheless learned.
In order to save you some time; springers up until about 20 years ago did use leather seals and typically did not achieve power much beyond 6.5fpe/600fps in .177, so leaky leather seals on most guns excluding the higher-end products could hardly generate enough compression heat to ignite gasoline, let along the heavier-viscosity oils recommended for lubing the seals.
Springers now (excluding a couple of the lowest-end Chinese products) use urethane seals, if lubed with a non-combustible lubricant (100% silicone oil) can achieve power levels of 25+fpe and generate alot more heat with alot less leakage- so yes, a petroleum-based lube would be bad news. |
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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:08 am |
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| Jeremy |
| Veteran Member |

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| Joined: 19 May 2010 |
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welcome to the forum roofer
And I think Eric is right on this one, all of the manuals I have for my spring rifles recommend putting chamber oil ( eg, crosman Silicone chamber oil, RWS chamber oil ) in to the compression port every few hundred pellets.
I have one of my dads old pellet rifles and it still has a leather seal and still shoots pretty good, I have been using silicone chamber oil in it for a few years. Hell when they were kids they would lube it with anything they could find I bet that rifle is close to 50 years old |
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