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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Accessories » Crosman reps says use Mobil 1 synthetic for Pellgunoil Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:39 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Quick strip-sand and a good polishing and all would be fine!

Mr. Green

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:42 pm Reply with quote
oddtodd
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I don't know about a strip sand, but good polishing would be nice. Naughty

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 9:33 am Reply with quote
bssonline
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Vegetable oils, due to their good lubricity and biodegradability are attractive alternatives to petroleum-derived lubricants, but oxidative stability and low temperature performance limit their widespread use.[35] Castor oil has better low temperature viscosity properties and high temperature lubrication than most vegetable oils, making it useful as a lubricant in jet, diesel, and race car engines.[36] The viscosity of castor oil at 10°C is 2,420 centipoise.[37] However, castor oil tends to form gums in a short time, and its use is therefore restricted to engines that are regularly rebuilt, such as race engines. Biodegradability results in decreased persistence in the environment (relative to petroleum-based lubricants[38]) in case of an accidental release. The lubricants company Castrol took its name from castor oil.
Castor oil is the preferred lubricant for bicycle pumps, most likely because it does not dissolve natural rubber seals.[39]
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 7:41 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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bssonline wrote:
Vegetable oils, due to their good lubricity and biodegradability are attractive alternatives to petroleum-derived lubricants, but oxidative stability and low temperature performance limit their widespread use.[35] Castor oil has better low temperature viscosity properties and high temperature lubrication than most vegetable oils, making it useful as a lubricant in jet, diesel, and race car engines.[36] The viscosity of castor oil at 10°C is 2,420 centipoise.[37] However, castor oil tends to form gums in a short time, and its use is therefore restricted to engines that are regularly rebuilt, such as race engines. Biodegradability results in decreased persistence in the environment (relative to petroleum-based lubricants[38]) in case of an accidental release. The lubricants company Castrol took its name from castor oil.
Castor oil is the preferred lubricant for bicycle pumps, most likely because it does not dissolve natural rubber seals.[39]


Please don't just "cut and paste" quotes from some random resource and post it verbatim- especially on topics 16 months out-of-date.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 9:45 pm Reply with quote
lampy
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I hate it when I reply to an old thread that has been revived, then can't delete my post when I realize this subject has been Dead Horse
I should pay more attention to the date of thread. Embarassed

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 8:43 pm Reply with quote
Robw
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Why non-detergent?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 9:27 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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Some detergents have a solvent component to them that could degrade common buna o-rings over time.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 9:30 pm Reply with quote
Robw
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Maybe that is why the pump piston seal went hard last year in the 1985 1377
I have. I have always used detergent motor oil in it to keep any wear
generated particles flowing through the mechanism and out.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:36 am Reply with quote
wayneclea
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after reading this, I am no closer to an answer, which is why I wound up here.
I recently bought a Crosman P10 CO/2 pistol, and the manual with it said to use 1 or 2 drops of pellgun oil on the end of the cartridge. I do not have any, and the Wal Mart where I shop has none. The cost of shipping it outrageous. Now, i do have cooking oil, and some sweet oil, which is actually olive oil.
To further get me wondering, i also downloaded the manual for the P10, and it does NOT mention putting oil on the end of the CO/2 cartridge?
would I be safe just using a bit of the sweet oil?
Or might I simply ignore using anything the first few times?
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 11:14 am Reply with quote
wayneclea
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wayneclea wrote:
after reading this, I am no closer to an answer, which is why I wound up here.
I recently bought a Crosman P10 CO/2 pistol, and the manual with it said to use 1 or 2 drops of pellgun oil on the end of the cartridge. I do not have any, and the Wal Mart where I shop has none. The cost of shipping it outrageous. Now, i do have cooking oil, and some sweet oil, which is actually olive oil.
To further get me wondering, i also downloaded the manual for the P10, and it does NOT mention putting oil on the end of the CO/2 cartridge?
would I be safe just using a bit of the sweet oil?
Or might I simply ignore using anything the first few times?


I reread the manual, both downloaded and the hardcopy that came with the P10.
It does not mention oil in the first part where it tells how to load a new CO/2 cartridge.
However, later in the manual, it says, under maintenance, that putting one drop on the end of the cartridge each time will help maintain your airgun.
as per other statements, it says to NOT use petroleum distillate based oil or solvent.

I have, someplace, a can of 3 in 1, and also a can of Singer brand sewing machine oil. But these are petroleum oils...
Hmmm Sign
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:09 pm Reply with quote
oddtodd
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Wayne, I have never used anything in any of my crosman pistols, including a 2240 that is over 20 years old. This was when walmart still sold them if that tells you how old that is. THat and the bricks of .22 shells were kept on an end cap and a block of 500 was 7.99. I wouldn't worry about it. I don't have any new guns considering my newest is over 5 years old, but I've never had any problems. Not only that, the piercing pin has a VERY small area of penetration so not much of that drop is getting in there anyway. Think a drop the size of an end of a ball point pen. That's not going to do very much. Not even that big a hole on some. My 2400 is just a pinprick and so is my 2300.

Is there anyone else who has not lubed their gun since they bought it?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:38 pm Reply with quote
AirGunEric
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I think the issue is over-lubing. I find the idea of putting oil on every caplet absurd- I oil things when having shot so many times I forgot how many, or the gun has sat for a looong time without being used.

I have seen guns that are "broken" clogged with oil from over-doing-it.

My suggestion- oil it about once every 500 shots.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 7:21 pm Reply with quote
wayneclea
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well, looks like I won't worry about oiling it.
My Crosman pump up rifle has not never been lubed, and I have been using it since 98 or 99. and is still fairly accurate
I don't even have the owners manual for it anymore...
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"The Complaints" 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:32 pm Reply with quote
redlock
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Has anyone ever used up a whole bottle of Pelgun oil? I know I haven't. They cost a couple of bucks and the product works well. So why are there so many threads about what the stuff is and what can it be replaced by that can be purchased by the liter? Why are we bandying about terms like naphthenic and paraffinic when I don't know what they are? Someone said 3 in 1 oil is parafinic. Well thre are (at least) two types of 3 in 1 oils and they are one of each. So can you use it for airguns? Who knows? Who cares. For a few dollars go get the correct oil and use it. Castor oil, I mean really. Is your gun constipated. Look up the WW1 pilots condition called "The Complaints".
Red.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:05 pm Reply with quote
Dink
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Does this information also pertain to barrel? I am new and looking to lightly cover (protect) inside of barrel. I like castor oil idea, is it a good product for barrel?
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Crosman reps says use Mobil 1 synthetic for Pellgunoil 
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