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HarryG · New Member

Just received by UPS a new air rifle, instructions could be more clear & have close illustrations of thumb hammer positions while cocking.
The barrel is cocked by pulling down all the way, hammer as half way at that time, now the barrel is locked all the way down & I cannot get it up into firing position, a predicament! Neither can hammer which now all the way back be changed by holding it while pulling trigger which has very little movement at this time. any suggestions?? I did send an email to EEECorp in Rockledge FL, the rifle came from Echo Commerce Sandy Utah, no email address given for them. will try to find it in the web. Thanks Harold

AirGunEric · Site Admin

It's imported to the U.S. by the "European American Armory" Company or 'EAA' from IZH-Baikal in Russia. Probably no surprise their English Manual writing skills are about as good as the Chinese.

The MP513 has what is called an "anti-backlash" feature- which means it will lock the barrel down until you release it once a pellet is installed- the idea being that it won't flip-up while you are loading a pellet and mangle your thumb/fingers between it and the receiver.

A picture of the gun:

And here's a link to it:

http://eaacorp.com/airguns-izhmp513-description.html

And the manual:

http://eaacorp.com/Manuals/mp513_manual.pdf (Note: This is an absurdly large document at about 3mb).

So, looking all that over, I can't explain why the hammer was moving while you were cocking it- unless it was already cocked before moving the barrel.

About the only thing I can suggest at this point if the barrel will not close is to pull the hammer all the way back and see if the barrel will close then. If you have the hammer all the way back so it is cocked, the gun (piston) is also cocked, and pulling the trigger does nothing- there is something wrong with the hammer and/or trigger assembly. The hammer is the gun's "safety" (i.e. gun will only fire when it is pulled all the way back) and the trigger, obviously releases it. So- pulling the trigger once everything is cocked (main spring and hammer) does absolutely nothing (you should have the piston release and slam the top of the chamber- not good for the gun- but it would still occur) the gun is defective.

Talk to where/whom you bought it and see what their proposed solution is for this. Taking the entire gun apart, thereby invalidating the warranty, finding what's defective- then, if it needs parts replaced you would have to pay for them plus shipping anyways- its likely going to be both faster and cheaper to send it back and tell them you want a replacement ASAP.

HarryG · New Member

I finally took it out to my repair shop and took it out of the stock, one of the front stock screws was not tight at all, other had sealant on threads, took a large well fitting screwdriver with a visegrip assisting it to get the damned thing out.

Trigger guard screws came out easily. With it out of the stock it decided to behave itself & barrel came up properly, before I put it back in the stock I put a pellet in, cocked it & shot it into a plank a couple feet away.

Base of pellet was a good half inch into the wood. Have the stock back on, shooting it w/o stock was not kind to my hand, was using it OK getting the sights fairly on at short range, maybe 10 or 12 feet. works OK!

Thanks much for the manual url! I appreciate it. Have used all sorts of guns in last 60 years, this has to be hardest trigger pull ever Smile

) Thanks again.

AirGunEric · Site Admin

I'm glad you got it sorted out!

It sounds, based on your experience, that it shifted in the stock, jamming the cocking lever somewhere inside, and/or that the trigger mechanism had been knocked around in shipping gumming it up against the improperly set&shifted stock. Did you happen to notice any rubbing or wear marks anywhere?

Are you planning on Loctite-ing the stock screws in again? Wink

Personally, I've never played with the MP513, but most of the newer Eurasian/Asian-made (as in Russia and China) airguns seem to often have very stiff triggers in comparison to mainland Europe, the UK and US made airguns.

HarryG · New Member

Loctite? No Smile

) I put oil on the threads, It was about $175, probably less than most, wanted velocity in case of squirrel run in again regarding back porch roof eaves. Had big hole & nest with 2 young in there, I don't care to kill things but critters like that are an exception.

Tore off old wood & replaced with good cedar siding wood I had, hope it doesn't taste as good to them Smile

Figured the one very tight screw may had had to do with the problem.

I also have an old .22 air rifle, unknown make, has a Williams receiver sight that fits into the round rear of action, under barrel pump up. Used to work OK, when I needed it had a leak at the rear somewhere.

Had to use a small chisel to cut away wood to clear crimped on safety lever, got it out of stock, could not determine where or why the leak, can hear it with each pump. Oiled it everywhere possible. Any ideas?? H

AirGunEric · Site Admin

'Pumper' type guns will tend to leak after awhile- seals dry out around the pump and valve.

As an example of a typical pumper- here are the parts in a Crosman 1322/1377:

Your mystery rifle won't be exactly the same- but undoubtedly of a very similar design.

Typical areas for leaks are the part numbered 760-140, the 'pump cup', #130-034 and #130-035- valve o-rings, #130-036 breech gasket, #1322A026 breech gasket sleeve. I may have missed a seal or two- so you may want to study that diagram a bit closer to get an idea.

O-rings you can typically buy a modern, properly-sized equivalent, the breech gasket and gasket sleeve are often replaced with "poly tube" like the stuff used to attach under-tap water filters, furnace-mounted humidifiers- as in the plastic water feed lines. You're going to have to take this one apart to find out for sure.

If the leak is only happening every time you pump- it's more than likely the 'pump cup'. What you can use to replace that I'm not entirely sure- take it out and look at it and maybe it will come to you.

If you can take a picture of the gun and post it- maybe someone will be able to identify it.

HarryG · New Member

Here is my leaking pump up air rifle, an O ring at chamber end of bolt looks OK, can hear the leak to rear, possibly another O ring further back?
Does firing air pass through the bolt end that pushes the pellet into chamber? Seems likely as I have wondered how the trigger releases it.
Has been a likeable gun, good sights ( had to make the front sight), nice trigger pull. Never had much need for it & living in a small town I don't dare use a regular .22. When I had it out of the stock I couldn't see any place where leak is. Thanks H

AirGunEric · Site Admin

Well- I don't know which gun that is offhand- but I notice it is a "Sears" branded gun. All 'Sears' airguns were either Crosman or Daisy. And other than cosmetics- they didn't make separate lines for Sears, only re-labelled what they already were selling under their own name.

I will do some more looking and see what I can find. Any idea of the year the rifle was bought, brand-new?

HarryG · New Member

I bought it at a yard sale here in town maybe 10-20 yrs ago, was old then, hard to remember. Front sight was gone but it had been working OK up until recently.
The rear end seems to have a sort of plug that is not made to get a wrench on to remove. Things don't last forever! Thanks, H

AirGunEric · Site Admin

After doing some investigating- it appears you have the Sears Roebuck version of the Crosman PumpMaster 1400. Yours is the first version built from 1968-1972, two other models were produced from 1972-1978. The two later models had bolt handles on them. Initially, I thought it was likely a Crosman Model 147- but that only came in .177 caliber- so it must be the 1400.

Apparently it wasn't the most powerful air rifle around- 580fps with 10 pumps, but has been a favored "upgrade model" for collectors. So- if you wanted to sell it as-is without modifying anything, it might be worth anywhere from $50-$250.

Anyways, here is the parts breakdown of it:

http://www.crosman.com/2004/pdf/manuals/crosman/1400/C1400-EVP.pdf

-but Crosman says they no longer sell parts for it. As mentioned- you may have to pull it apart and check all the seals and replace with modern equivalents to get it working correctly.

Just for reference, here's the owners manual for it (unfortunately this version of the owners manual is for the 2nd and 3rd versions with the bolt- but the same use and care instructions apply to the first version anyways):

http://www.crosman.com/2004/pdf/manuals/crosman/1400/C1400-OM.pdf

If you decide to try and get it working again- take some pictures as you go and let us know how it operates once done!

HarryG · New Member

Thanks again for great help & information, as I had to chisel away enough wood to clear the safety lever I doubt it might be of great value to a collector, I guess there are collectors for most anything. H