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Air Gun Home Forum Index » Airgun Smithing » Machining Fluid for Aluminum
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Machining Fluid for Aluminum 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 4:16 am Reply with quote
Amigo
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The short: Mineral Oil with dissolved Bees Wax.

My own concoction that I have been using for ten years now with great results.
The Long:
Most machining manuals list Lard Oil as one of the listed cutting fluids for most metal categories.
However, there are some practical drawbacks when Lard Oil is used in the home shop. First, it is hard to find in quantities less than 35 or 55 gallons. Second, when used in the small shop it does not take long for the user to smell like an unwashed fry cook after three days on the job at the "greasy spoon". Third, it does go rancid - phew Exclamation Been there - done that - got the "T" shirt.

Mineral Oil alone just does not work as well as Lard Oil or other recommended cutting fluids. It will work, just not near as well, so why Mineral Oil at all?
Well first, it does not attract rats and roaches. Second, it is odorless (in pure form) and will not go rancid. Third, it is Non Toxic and in USP grade, can be taken internally - used to be widely prescribed to cure constipation, so it is reasonable safe to have in a home shop where children may find it. Fourth, it is almost ubiquitous, and found in small quantities and known as products such as Baby Oil, lemon oil furniture polish (artificial color-only lemon scented), aka lamp oil, paraffin oil, liquid paraffin and is the base for most of women's cosmetics. Fifth, it will not stain, color or corrode any metal.
Sixth and not least, it is inexpensive and available in a range of viscosities.

An additive, Bees Wax, I have found, makes Mineral Oil better than Lard Oil without the negatives. The results of my experimentation show that about a 3/8" (10mm) cube of pure bees wax very thinly shaved into 16 oz. of mineral oil is about the right proportion.
The "sticky" part is that the bees wax must be very thinly shaved - I lightly scrape the cube to obtain fine particles which are easier to dissolve. Then, I put the mixture into a 16 to 20 oz. microwaveable pancake syrup bottle (withstands heat) and put the bottle in a double boiler on the kitchen range and heat until the bees wax is completely dissolved - the mixture will be crystal clear, then give it another 2 or 3 minutes at temperature.
If at cold temperatures the mixture clouds, just give it a shake.
From the 16 oz. bottle I dispense the Mineral Oil Bees Wax mixture into a Hypo 49 bottle for application at the lathe or mill. A Hypo 49 bottle is a 2 oz. squeeze bottle with a 20 or 22 gauge(.031"/.79mm orifice) 1 1/4"(31.75mm) long (dulled) hypodermic needle mounted in the lid. However, any squeeze bottle with a small dispensing nosed cap will do. BTW, the larger hypo needles can be bought in bulk for about .015 cents ea. or used for free from your local vet friend who treats livestock - just file or stone the sharp end flat (NOTE: sterilize the used before handling).

When turning, only a thin film is required on work and a drop on the cutter's edge. When milling, I apply a film to the cutting edges and flutes. Small amounts to create just a film are easily dispensed with the hypo needle. Also, when drilling on the lathe, the needle is easy to slip along a drill flute to squirt into a hole in progress.

There are better fluids for tapping steel and better fluids especially for drilling and tapping hardened tool steel RC 40 and harder.

Mineral Oil in the right viscosity is a stock item at Tractor Supply Co. (TSC) stores (Dionne brand from Canada) and most other farm supply stores. It's often advertised use is for dust reduction in livestock stalls and holding pens. In a pinch, use Baby Oil and add about 10 to 15% more Bees Wax or paraffin.
The cost is usually about $13 to $15 per gallon.
Bees Wax is found in hardware, grocery stores and hobby stores, or out back if you have a hive.

Maybe the home machinists will find this info useful in keeping especially the softer metals such as aluminum and brass from "welding" to the cutter edge and aid in obtaining a much better finish. This mixture also keeps aluminum and brass looking bright.

Amigo
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:53 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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Interesting article there Amigo, I must admit I use commercial cutting fluids for general lathe and milling use, but for tapping I find WD40 is a good general cutting lube for steel and aluminium, I haven’t tried bees wax but I do have a tin in the workshop so I’ll give it a try next time around, I also have used paraffin for hand tapping and it works well on cast iron, I know people say tap cast dry, but sometimes you need a little help.

Al

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 11:50 am Reply with quote
yourdaddyjoe
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I will have to see if they list the ingredients in my Stick Kut... It is awful waxy... but it works great.

I use it mostly on the carbide blade for the chop saw and drill bits when cutting and drilling aluminum. It really keeps them from plugging up.

I also got some A-1 aluminum cutting fluid from him that works better than the Stick Kut when cutting theads...

My local tool dealer bought a pallet of caulking size tubes of it at some surplus auction.

It would be nice to have an all around cutting fluid that works.

Thanks Amigo... I will give it a try... I just put a microwave in the shop to make popcorn and warm up my coffee... I wonder if it will change the taste... Wink


Last edited by yourdaddyjoe on Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:47 pm; edited 3 times in total

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Re: Machining Fluid 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:52 pm Reply with quote
Amigo
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Guys, the mixture and ratio as described works better than either one alone and is pretty much universal when used on Aluminum, Brass, Bronze (all alloys of copper), Cast Iron and Mild Steel. I also put just a drop on a lathe tool cutting edge before making initial contact when turning Nylon or Acetal.

Its viscosity is greater than WD40 and has less tendency to be slung off when turning on the lathe or the spinning end mill due to the Bees Wax additive.

The Mineral Oil concoction does not contain any silicon as does WD40, so its removal is much easier if the product is to be coated or anodized.

Hope this additional information clears up some questions.

Amigo
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:51 pm Reply with quote
yourdaddyjoe
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Sorry Al... I ment Amigo...

Here is the MSDS on Stick Kut... it does not give the chemical properties...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/msds/getmsds.ex?sku=3126544

But I did not know I could use it on sanding belts and grinding wheels to keep them from loading up...

http://www.barrettdiamond.com/carbide/stick.htm

Amigo... My question is... since you been there, done that and got the T-shirt... Did you get any on it? Mr. Green

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 4:28 pm Reply with quote
Alstone
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That’s all right Joe, I figured it was Amigo you where referring to.

Amigo I take you point about WD, but I got a case of 24 cans cheap, and you know what it’s like when your turning something and you quickly need a coolant or lube, it’s the first thing in sight, and in my workshop it’s WD. Smile

Sorry Joe I shouldn’t have mentioned “CAN’S” should I. Mr. Green

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:08 pm Reply with quote
yourdaddyjoe
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Alstone wrote:

Sorry Joe I shouldn’t have mentioned “CAN’S” should I. Mr. Green


They are getin' a Valentine's Day break...

Too much work to do in the shop... I am so far behind... I might run over myself...

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 5:08 pm Reply with quote
Amigo
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Al:

Don't get me wrong about WD40, I'm not knocking it. In fact, I buy WD40 by the gallon cause it has so many uses. I just keep it away from stuff that will be coated due to the silicon it contains. For the same reason I never use the aerosol WD40 in the shop - only out doors where it is less like to contaminate the unintended.

Thanks for the added application info for those who did not know it would work for machining and tapping.
I also have one of those Hypo 49 bottles filled and labeled for dedicated use of WD40.

Amigo
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 7:02 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Quote:
For the same reason I never use the aerosol WD40 in the shop - only out doors where it is less like to contaminate the unintended

I once worked in a steel food can plant. We banned the use of any aerosol lubricants inside, because they could compromise the lacquer coating on the inside of the can.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 7:20 pm Reply with quote
yourdaddyjoe
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Slavia wrote:
Quote:
For the same reason I never use the aerosol WD40 in the shop - only out doors where it is less like to contaminate the unintended

I once worked in a steel food can plant. We banned the use of any aerosol lubricants inside, because they could compromise the lacquer coating on the inside of the can.


I would have gone postal with a pellet gun if I worked there... Wink

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 7:39 pm Reply with quote
kanyon
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I just use Rocol products.. Only becuase we have them in 60 ltr drums at work
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Re: Microwave 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:10 pm Reply with quote
Amigo
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Joe:

Mineral Oil does not microwave well. If you get the Mineral Oil hot enough to melt the Bees Wax it will take awhile - the double boiler is quicker. Now, I was only using a 1200 watt Litton unit when I tried to heat the MO, so a more powerful unit might work a little faster.

Good Luck,

Amigo
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 5:36 am Reply with quote
Alstone
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kanyon wrote:
I just use Rocol products.. Only becuase we have them in 60 ltr drums at work


One of there best I find is RTD compound (Reamer Tap & Drill), also Penertrating oil.

Al

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Re: Microwave 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:55 am Reply with quote
yourdaddyjoe
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Amigo wrote:
Joe:

Mineral Oil does not microwave well. If you get the Mineral Oil hot enough to melt the Bees Wax it will take awhile - the double boiler is quicker. Now, I was only using a 1200 watt Litton unit when I tried to heat the MO, so a more powerful unit might work a little faster.

Good Luck,

Amigo


Nice, I have a double boiler / camp stove setup for heating my solution for bluing. Duh.... Can you tell I have been working 6-7 days a week trying to get caught up...

We have the second in a series of winter storms blowing through (High Wind advisory in effect)... The last storm, we got snow... So I may take the day off... But then again... I really can not afford to... I am dangeriously low or just plain out of the fast moving parts. I guess I can work till the power goes out.....

I did install a small 8" blower fan in the rafters to blow the heat back down... It sure helps to keep it toasty in the shop. What a difference... Even the outside cold was not coming through the un-insulated walls...

Yesterday... it was only 40* outside with a 35* wind chill and I only needed to keep the Propane Cat. heater on low. I did not even need to wear my shop jacket..

Relevance... I did not need to keep the Stick Kut near the heater to keep it workable... Wink

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:24 pm Reply with quote
Amigo
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I had not seen Rocol products in the U.S. but I think that is because they may be marketed under the ITW name. Did find this on Rocal:

ROCOL UK is a manufacturer of of lubrication, site safety, and adhesive solutions located in the United Kingdom and is partner to ITW ROCOL North America. Their products are available in the United States through a Canadian distributor, Lalonde, Lalonde, & Assoc. Inc.. Below is their contact information.

Lalonde, Lalonde, & Assoc. Inc.
768 Westgate Rd, Unit 2
Oakville, Ontario, L6l 5N2, Canada
Phone: 905-847-8707
Fax: 905-847-5584
sales@lalonde.ca
www.lalonde.ca

I wonder if the price of any off the manufactured compounds costs less than $13.00 per gal. plus a nickles worth of Bees Wax?
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Machining Fluid for Aluminum 
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