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oddtodd · Silver Status Member

Okay, I'm getting ready to strip the stock on my storm, and I was wondering what kind of finish that everybody uses. I am thinking about either tru oil, or polyurethane. I want to keep the blonde color that it is or even lighter. Any tip or pointers will be much appreciated!

Todd

Amigo · Veteran Member

Todd:

I have found that Tru-Oil is easier to blend in a "touch-up" in the event of scratch or scrape than is polyurethane.

fritz · Silver Status Member

I know nothing about tru-oil, but a clear polyurethane or shaded is a fairly durable finish.

I was watching Norm Abram (my favorite carpenter) and he used 2-3 coats of HIGH GLOSS poly, because it is more durable. Then because he wanted the piece to be semi-gloss, he put one final coat of semi on top. Remember to very lightly sand and tack-cloth in between coats.

oddtodd · Silver Status Member

Thanks guys. I don't know exactly what I am going to do yet, but I am ordering my checkering tools at the beginning of the month.

Slavia · Moderator

Some finishes are designed to penetrate into the wood, and some just lay on top.

Boiled linseed oil, tung oil, etc. penetrate before curing. The liquid has a whole bunch of separate molecules that react with oxygen to polymerize and form a big solid "mega-molecule." They give "depth" to the wood grain. They penetrate and seal well. They can be built up to give gloss, but it takes a few coats. Tru Oil is one of these, but it has been heated to accelerate drying time (and it's also a little thicker than the others).

The lacquers, shellacs, and varnishes work differently. They have a resin that's either dissolved or suspended in a volatile vehicle. The liquid evaporates and leaves the solids behind. Use one of these if you want high gloss.

The oil finishes (Tru Oil included) and shellac will have a slight tint. Some of the polyurethane finishes are almost colorless. On walnut when I use Tru Oil I don't use any stain at all - it will be dark enough with just the finish.

My favorite is Tru Oil. I rub it on with a clean cloth, just enough to "wet" the surface. In between coats I knock off the gloss and drips, runs, sags, etc. with 0000 steel wool. I'll go 5-10 coats, depending on how much gloss I want, and also on how much I want to fill the wood pores. It dries pretty quickly, and I usually figure two coats per day. The last coat gets rubbed out with automotive paint rubbing compound, followed by paste wax.

The 2240 in this thread is an example:
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?t=1436&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15