 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | Gaining access to pin and spring - Crossman Phantom model - |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:48 pm |
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| n9nu |
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| Joined: 22 Oct 2008 |
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I am trying to follow the instructions in another post to modify the length of the piston and/or spring and have gotten as far as the pictures show below. I am sure I am missing something very simple, but I cannot get to or remove the spring and rod. The trigger assembly is still in place, but very loose...so I am sure there is something holding that in. I do not know if there is a substantial amount of tension while it is in the non-pumped mode, so I am just requesting a bit of advice.
Below are a few pix to look at.
Thank you for any help
Tim |
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:02 pm |
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| AirGunEric |
| Site Admin |

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Hello Tim:
Modifications to the piston are typically for a Phantom "500" which is a version sold outside the US where specific maximum power levels are legal without firearms permits/licenses. If you have a US-version of the Phantom- i.e. a Phantom 1000, funking with the piston length will not gain you anything.
As for the disassembly, I cannot see the details in the pictures very well- but you need to have the flat spot below the rear cover (the black plastic piece with the 1/2 dome on it) supported either in a spring compressor or with a fair amount of pressure so you can remove the rest of the pin that you have about half-way out in the picture. The pin is the only thing holding the spring pressure back at the moment as you have already removed the bolt/flange that holds the rear spring guide and the trigger mounting tab. Once the pin is out, the spring will want to release, pushing the rear guide out and you can pull the spring right out after that. The piston you may have to push out a bit as it should be fairly tight in the tube because of the piston seal on the top. |
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:30 pm |
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| n9nu |
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| Joined: 22 Oct 2008 |
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Hi
Very well on the modification issues. I do have the US version, so I will stop and re-assemble it. I did not realize the export version was sold with less power...in fact I would have thought just the opposite
I just bought a sweet little ...I should say big...Center Point 4 x 16 x 40 scope with built in red and green cross hair illumination and was hoping to gain a bit more FPS with a mod. No biggie though.
Thanks again for the information.
Tim |
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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 1:57 am |
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| kanyon |
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Hi....from the pic...it looks to me that as you are not useing a spring compresser..what I think has happend is that once you taped the pin out of one side on the chamber the spring pressure has made the end plug twist locking the pin in the hole on the side it is still through.
The spring could have 25+ mm of preload on it while uncocked.
in the bottom pic you can see the pin is not at 90deg to the chamber
"on a angle" making it bined in the hole through the chamber.
A simple bar clamp can be used as a spring compresser.
The lose trigger unit is held tight by the rear stock bolt.
once the spring and steped plastic guide are out the trigger unit will slide back a few mm then lift straight up and out.
the 2 best mod you can make are a GTRlll trigger and a Maccari spring & seal a good debur and lube
Hope its of help |
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_________________ Career Infinity PCP .22
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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:18 am |
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| AirGunEric |
| Site Admin |

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| While you have it partially in pieces- along the same lines as Kanyon had mentioned, do something about the trigger- maybe polish it to smooth it out (wear points/pins, not the trigger blade) and put some proper lube in the tube- that reddish/yellow lube that's in it from the factory isn't very good. |
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Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:39 pm |
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| Slavia |
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My G1 is exactly the same setup - the trigger will be loose, but not come out until you remove the "half-domed thing" at the end.
Make a spring compressor to put a little pressure on the end cap, and the pin will drop right out. I have done it with the compressor and by pushing against a post, but the compressor is way easier. I haven't measured it, but 25mm of preload sounds about right.
If you have a scope stop on top, the screw may protrude into the tube, preventing you from removing the guts. Take it off. |
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¡Listo! ¡Apunte! ¡Fuego! |
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 |  | | | |  |  |  |  | Tnx guys |  | |  |  |  |
Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:05 pm |
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| n9nu |
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Hi.
Tnx for all the tips. I managed to get it back together perfectly and when I first fired it, I noticed that it had a lot of kick. The velocity (measured) has also increased by 60 feet PS. I don't recall doing anything other than taking it a part and looking around. Very interesting. I wonder if I put something back in a slightly wrong position or adjusted something without knowing it. LOL. Anyways....it has the increased velocity now...
The scope I bought was a Center Point 4x-13x by 40 with both red and green lighted crosshairs. It was on sale at Wal-Mart for only $49.95. Not bad.
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Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 11:39 pm |
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| Slavia |
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| Quote: |
| I don't recall doing anything other than taking it a part and looking around. |
I've heard of lube tunes, but I'll have to give you credit for inventing the "zen tune." Or maybe there's more to the gun's name than just marketing.... |
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