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kanyon · Silver Status Member

Hi guys.. I have spent the last 2 weeks trying to make 2 stage triggers
for my B11 fleet 9 in all now cut one up so I could see what was happening inside the trigger housing. I.m lucky that I have lasers/turret punchs/3 axes cnc machine centres/mills/lathes ETC at my finger tips.
I started by scanning the standard plastic trigger on a 3D mapping table and then while on the computer I made 3 veryants of it with diffrent angles ratios & hole placement then exported the files to the laser and had it cut 2 of each in stainless steel.I have spent the last week playing with them file a bit here trim it there till I came up with something that worked but the guns very enough so that one trigger won't work in all guns each one has to be finished for each gun. here are some pics of what I have been up to.
If you take a close look at the triggers you will notice the ratio & hole placement are diffrent on each trigger

Slavia · Moderator

I like the flat sides - it would make it easier to attach a trigger shoe. Some triggers (especially stamped) don't have enough surface for the setscrews to engage.

broommaster2000 · Moderator

Like Crosman 22XX triggers. They suck. Mr. Green

cw · Banned

Nice work! Have you ever thought of making any replacements
for the plastic parts found on all of the RWS line? You could
make a fortune just making stainless triggers. The plastic
trigger breakage problem with them is the only
thing that makes me shy away from their products

kanyon · Silver Status Member

HI...I would imagine that RWS triggers would be a lot easyer than B11 ones as the B11 very so much from gun to gun. I have some working but I really don't think they are much of and aprovement over the standard ones but will keep fiddling. I starting to think the sear needs to be reangled to work with the new trigger angles but the sears are case hardened so its a bit more of a drama to make new ones then harden them
If I had a RWS trigger it would take about 30 mins to scan and cut some.

cw · Banned

Case (or surface) hardening is easy. Get the part red hot and
immerse in carbon rich paste (I use powered leather in mineral oil).
It works great at infusing carbon (from the leather and oil burning)
into steel's surface. It's great for reworked trigger groups or ones that
are not hardened at the factory.

Slavia · Moderator

I was just going to start on the trigger group of my G1, and that recipe is perfectly timed. I've used oil before, but the extra carbon from the leather makes sense.

cw · Banned

Yeah, people have been doing it for years. I remember my Dad
and Grandpa doing it was I was very young. They would brown
a sheet of leather with a kerosene torch untill it was real crispy,
pound it into a powder and then mix it with different oils. It's
definitely something that you want to do outside. It's really good
for direct wear surfaces and making things scratch resistant.
It leaves a pretty cool looking blued finish too.

Slavia · Moderator

cw · Banned

That's the way that they used to blue guns (and clock parts)
in the days before liquid bluing. They used to brown metal,
back then also.

cw · Banned

I like how some of the bluing back then was evenly mottled.
It is very hard to get mottling even. When I mottle, I usually
have to strip back down to base and re-try several times before
I get it just right. Then you have to hurry up and seal with oil from
the environment before any H2O comes in contact or you will
wreck your pattern.

Slavia · Moderator

Do you suppose that was from less homogeneity in the steel, or from the oil mixture?

cw · Banned

You can add mottling easy by introducing areas in the tempering
mixture that inpregnate carbon into the surface at different rates.
Pieces of leather, small pockets/globs of grease, even hair has been
used. Just make very sure that NO moisture at all gets involved in
the process or things will turn painful quick.