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Air Gun Home Forum Index » General Air Gun Questions and Topics » Mr ,Sterne
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Mr ,Sterne 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:43 am Reply with quote
lorraine
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Location: New york
Is there any flux needed on what we where told as 100% virgin lead as a re melt? We are ready to pour .308s for the first time and even went as far as a $1200.00 mold heater to help up keep up the temp to make a hot clean pour and pretty slugs! What is the deal with the 22cal barrel you just ordered? .who what where why when ?.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:36 am Reply with quote
rsterne
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I use a piece of beeswax about the size of a pea for 10 lbs. of lead, even if I'm not adding tin, because it helps the oxide on the lead float to the top.... I use 1% tin, it greatly improves fill-out, especially on the small calibers, and keeps the bullets shiny longer.... I recently found that even the 1% goes dull eventually, but 2% seems not to dull.... I think for convenience I would recommend you just get the 40:1 (2.5% tin) from Rotometals.... The higher the tin content the lower the casting temperature.... but the smaller the caliber the hotter you need to go.... and you need a hotplate or similar to preheat your molds to ~550-600*F....

The barrel I got recently is a 7" twist (for long bullets) .257 cal from TJ's.... They are sold by the inch ($4.75/in) in any length you want.... He has other sizes suitable for airguns, and tons of PB sizes.... No website, call Mike @ (859) 635-5560.... I designed a .22 cal for him, it is 0.217"groove, 0.213" land and a 16" twist.... I assume you know that airgun calibers and PB calibers are different for the most part....

Bob

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:09 pm Reply with quote
Slavia
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Paraffin works also to separate the dross from the molten lead. That's a grocery store item. Regarding pre-heating the mold: I found when casting muzzle loader bullets that pace and rhythm is important. Slow down and the mold gets cold, causing the lead to freeze in the sprue.

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Mr ,Sterne 
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